This morning we were woken at 7am to be told we had 20 minutes to get ready for our zodiac ride to the Maximiliana. We had already had a few panic station alerts but this was the first to wake us from deep sleep. We were soon waiting by the shore for the zodiac and Brazilian crew who first had to take some emergency medical supplies to the airport. After half an hour or so sitting expectantly in the zodiac we were on our way! A nice 5 minute morning breeze aboard the zodiac woke us up, followed by a hair-raising clamber up a rope ladder to the welcome Maxilimilana above. The Maximiliana is a Brazilian Navy ship but also research vessel with some nicely equipped laboratories and meeting rooms. We were also very pleased to be invited to breakfast as we had had to leave before Russian breakfast time (and you never know when the next opportunity for food might be..) though the medic who was in charge of us on the ship kept apologising for the mess as there had apparently been a big party the night before (and still people sleeping on the sofas). We were told the ship sleeps 120 but last night they were over capacity – and being Brazilian this means if there is no space to sleep then – well, that means you simply have to party instead. Of course.
The journey to Potter Cove and Jubany took little more than half an hour but, as we approached, the weather got windier and we were told it might not be possible to finish the journey and might need to spend the night at the Brazilian base, another 4 hours around into Admiralty bay, and try again tomorrow. While I’m sure it would not have been a bad thing to stay at the Brazilian base we were so close (a few minutes zodiac ride) to Jubany we could already see people gathering at the shore and the zodiac being prepared. I had my fingers crossed that we could disembark – we were so close! Potter Cove is amazing, Jubany’s red buildings stand out against the grey and white of rock and snow, with the towering majestic tres hermanos rocks behind. And all around the rest of the cove huge glaciers come down to meet the sea. Spectacular and remote.
It started to snow and the waves didn’t look very enticing but we were relieved when we were told that, yes, the Jubany zodiac was going to come and get us! The next hair-raising experience was descending the rope ladder, especially when I ran out of rungs and, feet dangling in the air I had no idea how far it was to the zodiac below. Luckily I felt a welcome hand guide me as I jumped down. The wind was picking up and then the zodiac engine cut out – but, after several attempts, we were going at full speed towards the shore where the welcome committee from Jubany and our Dallman lab colleagues from Polar Pioneer were out to greet us, also watched by a huge elephant seal on the shore. Finally, only two weeks after leaving the UK, we set foot on Jubany soil (and snow)! The next zodiac trip collected the famous toilets and remaining kit bags – this time the engine stopped working altogether and frantic paddling was required to bring the zodiac back to shore.
After lunch Steve, Tamara (Instituto Antartico Argentinia PhD student working with us) and I went for an afternoon walk to get our bearings and feel for our field area. Tamara has been here before so is a very useful mine of information (as well as being able to communicate with all the relevant members of the base to arrange additional equipment requirements and transport etc.). The Potter Peninsula field area is amazing, gently rolling in contrast to the tres hermanos and a real contrast in terms of snow content to Fildes Peninsula – here there are actually some patches of ground – a gloopy brown sludgy rock scattered mud pie.
The evening consisted of a huge dinner of soup, asado and tinned fruit salad, biscuits and dulce de leche. And wine. What luxury. Followed by a celebratory welcome beer back in the Dalmann accommodation. We have arrived!