As you get older, one notices that your resistance to alcohol diminishes at a rather alarming rate. This is particularly significant when you have made a previous arrangement to meet new friends and explore the local countryside. And so it was that after a night of salsa dancing, Im up again after little more than 3 hours sleep to meet Rodrigo, his sister, Mona and her husband Fernando for a ride to Pance (pronounced pansay), a village in the hills surrounding Cali. After a short but very claustrophobic journey on one of the local micro-buses, we arrive in Pance to be surrounded by towering green hills separated by a fast running fresh water river. The jungle starts here but we could have been thousands of miles from civilisation, in fact Fernando pointed out that it was only a matter of a few hills before you reach the villages of some of the tribes that retain their ancient and so called primitive existence. We had a paddle in the river before trying some of the local delicacies including a milk based drink known as Kumis. It had the texture of yogurt and tabs of sugar and cinnamon are added to remove some of its natural bitterness. As hangover cures go it was certainly better than paracetamol. Other than the natural splendor the most prominent feature of Pance was unfortunately, the number of the military personnel. Fernando told me that control of the village by the government has only been secured in the last few years and whilst I didnt feel threatened by their presence, it was yet another indication of the how violence or at least its associated symbols have a ubiquitous presence. On the other hand, the local people forever rise above such negativity, even my polite refusal of dinner with the family was met with consternation. However, by the time we returned to the apartments I was desparate for some shut-eye.

It seems that I have made a slight miscalulation in my research planning. Whilst I was very much hoping that this week I would have my first opportunity to enter Aguablanca and contact some of the schools, I had overlooked the fact that this week is also Semana Santa or Holy Week across the entire Catholic world. The significance of this event is that all of the schools in the area are closed until Monday week while the adults do their penitence by carrying or following church icons around the city. As a secular liberal, this is more of an inconvenience than a planning disaster as there is plenty to be getting on with in the meantime not least the preparation of the mini research and assignment papers. Whilst it will be interesting to compare the processions with those of Seville, this week will in all likelihood be dominanted by more reading with the intention of starting the documents in terms of a framework and the introductory statements.

Im reading an excellent book that Joni has recommended detailing the specifics surrounding poverty and inequality in Colombia; Las Piezas del Rompecabezas (The Pieces of the Jigsaw). Its written by a pair of Spanish economists and relates specifically to the principle issues surrounding the Colombian education system. I have read a number of chapters and theres no doubt that it will provide a valuable source of contextual and statistical information.
On Friday afternoon, myself, Joni and Rodrigo went to a local private university (La Autonoma de Occidente) in order that Joni could present the results of his dissertation to a group of local academics. Once again, it is worth noting the high quality and modernity of these private institutions, though how much resource is set aside for the poor remains to be seen. Whilst it was largely a repetition of his Newcastle presentation, it is to his enormous credit that Joni did the whole thing in Spanish, which given the context was very intimidating. I say this having had to respond in Spanish to a few questions regarding my own presence in Cali and the extent of my own research. Ultimately, the whole event passed off extremely well, the group was friendly, positive and very interested in the scope of the research and the results. Locals contacts such as these will be invaluable for promoting our work in Colombia in the future.
One such contact is Teresita, a PhD student researching educational exclusion who spent 3 years studying in Belfast. After the presentations, we spoke about our backgrounds, particular areas of interest and the possibility of working together in the future. I left the university with a very real sense of purpose and optimism as I think todays events represented a whole new world of opportunity.
Having taken a siesta to recharge the batteries after a very demanding few hours myself, Joni and Letitia met up with Maria Jose and a few friends for an evening at a Salsa bar. Whilst I have forgotten almost all the moves I learned in Spain, it seems the Colombians dont take themselves too seriously and simply enjoy a good dance, as such the few basic steps that I remember were no impediment to a good time. We finally got home at 5 oclock in the morning.