Tuesday. Although I had more than enough to be getting on with I spent most of the morning chatting to Ana Lucias cleaner, Lisbania. Considering the surgical cleanliness of the flat, Im surprised she can find enough work to do. However it pays relatively well, jobs are at a premium and whilst Ana Lu is convinced the place is filthy in perpetuity (if not in reality) she will always be required. This is only the second time I have met Liz but she is a very cheerful and friendly person which considering her story is no mean feat. You see despite her youth (30 years old) she has already been widowed twice. The first husband was the victim of a motorcycle accident and her second husband (who in a morbid irony bought the motorbike) was shot dead not 2 months ago. Now look me in the eye and tell me you wouldnt be paranoid if you were in her flip flops.

By coincidence, she lives very near to the El Diamante school in Aguablanca and is convinced she knows our guide Geraldo. We talk about education in the area and which school her children attend. She tells me that they all go to a state school (technical skills as opposed to commercial), though her preference would be a private institution as she believes it offers higher quality. I ask her if she is aware of the PAC programme that offers goverment subsides to select private schools and therefore concessionary/free places to a given number of poor children. Interestingly, she hasnt the slighest awareness of the school mix in Aguablanca or the potential of a private education for her children. We have a look at the comuna 13 school records on my PC and I point out the relevant institutions and potential opportunities in her environs. Ignorance is probably as bigger hurdle to opportunity as availability in poor areas. I hope she gets lucky as few people probably deserve it more.

We were due to meet Geraldo in the El Poblado neighbourhood at 2.30pm, however I trashed that by mentioning to Joni how pain free the whole research process had been to date. Needlesstosay, that was trigger for a spot of bad luck as Geraldo arrived nearly an hour late due to brake problems with his scooter. It was closing in on 4pm as we headed in the direction of couple of private institutions in the Poblado2 neighbourhood, known for being a particularly sensitive area. The bad luck continued as first the DoS of Instituto Comercial Santa Rosa (private)declined our overtures (too busy at this time) and secondly Liceo Pedagogica Sur Oriental (private) was closed for the afternoon. Beyond them both and deep into bandit territory (as Geraldo quaintly described it) was a large public institution also called Santa Rosa (though no relation). Outside were numerous parents who as security informed us were attending a parents meeting, a second great smash and grab opportunity in the mould of Luz Haydee was presenting itself though much would depend on our timing and the attitude of the DoS. As luck would have it, our host and DoS was Victor who we met at the Community Violence debate a few weeks previously. It was Victor who so candidly contextualised dry politics in terms of the daily tragedies on the Aguablanca streets. Fortunately, he is by no means all talk and received us efficiently and courteously despite the stress of the meeting. We quickly briefed him on the scope of our research (which we can now describe on auto-pilot) before he disappeared to greet his audience, meanwhile we waited in the office for his return. Joni, Geraldo and myself had been chatting for about 20 mins when we suddenly became aware that Victor was introducing us to the crowd and what a crowd it had become. As we stepped beyond the office threshold it became apparent that over 200 parents had come to the meeting, obliged as they are to attend. Victor invited me to speak and whilst I feel my Spanish has improved Im no Miguel Cervantes, so I put in a sidestep and threw a languid hospital pass to my partner. Fortunately, Joni is a true trooper, not to mention an outrageous lingistic (5 languages at the last count) carrying it off with great aplomb and receiving a big round of applause for his troubles. We asked the parents to spare a little time after their teachers meeting to complete the questionnaires and it just remained for us to organise an appropriate situ. At this moment, we all paused to consider the full breadth of opportunity. With Luz Haydee just around the corner, we could drop off the teacher and DoS questionnaires and complete that set having already carried out the parents session. Whilst I remained at Santa Rosa to greet the parents post-teacher meeting, it was agreed that Joni and Geraldo would headed off to LuzH with the requisite documents and return asap. It so happened that minutes after their departure, numerous parents and their children were already departing requiring it seems little teacher reassurance. In the absence of any official recognition I grabbed a table and a few available chairs, offering them to a number of willing interviewees and quite a few unwilling ones. Forty minutes into the process and things were turning a little chaotic, whilst I had 5 or 6 parents safety seated I had found myself tied to a semi-literate women who obviously needed plenty of assistance. However, whilst I was so occupied I wasnt able to give the essential prompt to other parents who were drifting closer to the exit. Just as I was preparing to cut the ambilical, Joni and Geraldo came to the rescue once again. In total we snared 29 parents and could have had many more had I not run out of questionnaires. One notable individual was a tiny, displaced indigenous woman with the worries of the world on her shoulders. She was so intent on understanding the scope of our work in Agaublanca and how it might help her community. Its clear that displacement as well as violence are significant inter-related factors that effect society and consequently education in this area.

I would have appreciated a few minutes more with her but both Joni and Geraldo were getting concerned about the time, it was long after dark and we were in Poblado2, renown above all neighbourhoods. I gathered up all the paperwork and as we waved a hasty goodbye Geraldo looked around for the nearest and safest escape route, one with plenty people even if the light was in short supply. We crossed the central plaza and around a few children playing basketball. I felt reassured by their presence but as Geraldo told me later, its not the locals who have anything to fear. Whilst I could see the bright lights of a major throughfare there no way through but for one of the dark, narrow and sinister streets, Geraldo picked the most populous and we followed meekly and rapidly behind him. Whilst we kept our heads down to avoid eye contact, youre are aware of being sized up by everyone you pass and even though we reached the main street in short shrift, Geraldo kept up the pace until we were safely esconsed in a cab. Once out of Poblado2 he spoke of the group of bandits he noticed, the strong smell of hash and the fact that no questions are asked here, if these guys want something youll probably end up on the slab before a word is even uttered. No time for photos then.

After a day like that you deserve a beer or two and lo it came to pass…….

Having acquired so many completed questionnaires from Luz Haydee, Thursday and Friday of last week was spent entering the data into Excel. Whilst the data forms the basis for the entire research project, the actual entry process is boring, repetitive and extremely time consuming. I had considered giving the job to a local business but I simply dont trust them or anyone else to do it properly. In addition to the data entry, I have started my mini research project investigating philanthropy and the role that donors play in education within comuna 13 (see map). At this stage, it appears that most donations are managed by local foundations and NGO’s and I have uncovered a number of papers related to large institutions in the Cali area. As indicated previously, I have developed an measuring instrument for deriving a basic profile of philanthropy and have integrated it into my Climate model, so whilst Ive been able to describe the contextual setting, I’ll have to wait for the DoS responses before drawing any kind of conclusion.

On Saturday I met up with Teresita, the PhD student from the Autonoma University that I met during Joni thesis presentation a couple of weeks back. She is married to an Irish fella, Trevor and thought we would get on really well, so I was very much looking forward to the study break. Its clear that Teresita is a very good judge of character, as we had plenty in common (particularly travel and rugby) and rabbited on for most of the night. I was also introduced to their baby daughter Sarah, who somewhat amusingly has not a single physical traits in common with her dark, Colombian mother. Sarah is a green-eyed, pale skinned, redhead and the centre of attention whenever theyre out shopping. T&T have built their own house on the edge of the city with Condors flying overhead and sensational, uninterupted views of the jungle. However after a gut full of red wine, it represented an impenetrable barrier to my journey home, being potentially more dangerous than Aguablanca. The following afternoon and with a raging hangover, I made it back to the centre of town just in time to meet Ana Lucia who reminded me that we were going to an International Dance Festival that evening. Naturally I acknowledged the reminder as if a night on the tiles was perfect preparation for an evening of culture. Im really enjoying the intensity of the Cali experience but Im definitely beginning to flag and I havent even reached half way.

Monday morning. Geraldo was busy and delayed our meet until the afternoon. I caught up with Joni at 10am at his place to discuss our plan for the week. In view of the success of the pilot study and the absence of critical comments, I decided that it would be a good idea to print out a large portion of the questionnaires (60 for the parents and 20 for the teachers). It seemed to me that based on a up to date teacher list, we could potentially perform a random sample at each institution and present the DoS with the documents then and there, saving the need for multiple visits. We first visited El Diamante to retrieve the Director of Studies (DoS) and teacher questionnaires we had deposited the previous week. Whilst on that occasion he appeared distant and somewhat negative, the weekend break had obviously done him the world of good as he presented us with a number (though not all) of the requisite papers. He talked us through the results and whilst I was grateful for his input, I was somewhat concerned about his potential influence on the teachers. Whilst the DoS is aware of the anonymity requirement, I have yet to meet any of the teachers directly, as the DoS insists on passing the papers onto the teachers themselves. Under such circumstances, it will be essential to check the variety of answers given by the teachers, whether they are critical of the school to any degree and more importantly, how their views compare with those of the parents. One further interesting aspect is that despite being a public school, El Diamante receives funds from 3 seperate foundations, paying for roughly 7% of the places for poor children. My initial interpretation of this funding arrangement is that the state appears to be sidestepping its constitution obligations, however Ill have to follow it up with the DoS to get his point of view. Despite these funds a quick inspection of the teachers questionnaires suggests that lack of resource is the principle issue at this particular school.

In yet another successful afternoon, we are able to visit numerous large institutions including El Poblado (private), Humberto (Public) and Loboguerrero (Public). At each school, the DoS allowed us to view the teacher list and leave a number of questionnaires based on a (on-the-spot) random sample. Each DoS was also amenable to the idea that we attend the next parents meeting with the aim of undertaking a one-stop questionnaire session. We exchanged phone numbers and dates for future reference. The only problem we encountered today was the lack of access to La Florida and a further chat with Rigoberto at the Voluntad de Dios. Our way was blocked by police who were apparently engaged in a fierce exchanges with recently arrived displazados (displaced people). No worries officer, we can do it some other time.

Wednesday. Before returning to Aguablanca that afternoon I headed for a local internet cafe on Roosevelt, I had promised the children paper copies of their photographs and I was determined not to disappoint them. Myself and Joni met up with Geraldo in order to completely our first task, collecting the pilot study questionniares left with the Director of El Diamante. Before leaving Newcastle, Pauline had warned us of the significance of contingency as research programmes simply never go to plan. This was the first opportunity for a director to deliver and needlesstosay he wasnt available. We found his secretary but of course she hadnt been told anything, so we left El Diamante empty handed on this occasion but promised to return before the weekend.
Of course there was plenty to be getting on with in the meantime and having looked over the list of selected schools Geraldo led the grand tour of communa 13. First up was a large private school, Al Poblado (see photo). The school itself was located in a more built up area and as I took some photos the children waved at me from the playground, situated by necessity on the roof. Once again the Director was unavailable, so we simply took the opportunity to leave the introductory letters from Jairo and Sugata (as my mentor) and promised to return in quick time. The next school on the list was a large public school Luz Haydee, the location for the Jefe de Nucleo meeting of the previous week. As seemed to be the way this day, the Director was just leaving as we approached the school, however this time the outcome was to be notably different. This Director of Studies had been present at Jairos meeting and therefore was already aware of our presence and the scope of the study. Whilst he couldnt help us personally, he said that there was a teacher/parent meeting at the school in an hour and that we were more than welcome to question any of the attendees/volunteers. This was an unexpected opportunity not to be wasted however, I only had a digital version of the parents questionnaire on a memory stick. Thinking quickly, Geraldo took us to an internet cafe and we printed out 30 copies of the document and bought 30 pencils to match. Before heading back to Luz Haydee, we returned to Voluntad de Dios to pick up the pilot study documents of the previous day and to drop off copies of the photos. Whilst Rigoberto himself was unavailable he had left the completed teachers questionnaires for me to collect, my first real success. In addition, the class of children I had photographed the previous day were in the same location. Im not sure how the schedule works at this time of day but the class was in total bedlam, even more so when I handed copies of the photos to the class supervisor (who was overseeing rather than teaching the class). She was obviously more experienced than she looked and wisely used the bait to bring the children to heel; sit down quietly or no photo. We thanked the teachers for their cooperation and headed back to Luz Haydee.
On arrival, we met with the Deputy Director who explained that all of the parents and children were currently meeting the teachers in their respective classrooms but that he would be prepared to present the study to each group and ask for volunteers. As it happened his speech to the respective groups was spot on and whilst it was a little uncomfortable to be repeatedly presented a foriegn exhibit, it did the trick and we were able to extract more than 20 willing parents. Once they had completed their meeting with the teachers, our volunteers duly appeared at the Sala de Estudios and quietly completed the questionnaire.
Before departure Joni suggested that we explain to the parents the scope and broader context of our work in Cali, I agreed and volunteered him to start the ball rolling. Whilst I hardly expected to be received as the returning messiah, one or two parents saw our invitation as an opportunity to air a few very personal grievances about the school and the education system in general. A teacher was present but he chose to ignore the conversation and left us to fend for ourselves. Of course, we werent there to represent or defend the school and the subject of a childs education is no less emotive a theme here than anywhere else. All things said and done I think we handled it pretty well, though I suspect positive solutions to many of their issues (particularly school and neighbourhood security) are not going to arrive anytime soon. Happily at least one of parents approached and thanked both of us for at least being there and trying to improve the lives of their children.
It had been a long, dusty, hot afternoon in the Colombian sun, matched by a raft of intense incident and experience. By the time I got home that evening I was completely done in. To finish the day, myself and Camilo (Lucias friend) went onto the street to find a bite to eat. Of course the conversation revolved around my experiences in Aguablanca as neither he nor Lucia have ever visited the district. He indicated that while the situation is very sad, the actions of the government always lag behind those of the inhabitants. He predicted that within 10 years La Florida will have been formally absorbed into the surrounding community, facilites and services will be connected and life will improve. Numerous other new slums will appear in the meantime but thats the nature of things and life for many was little better in the country. Our discussion expanded to include themes such as wealth inequalities and violence in the context of Colombian culture. He mentioned on a number of symbolic moments from history, touchstones in the national psyche and recommended a book that is standard in the national curricula – Las Venas Abiertas de America Latina (The Open Veins of Latin America). Significant contextual material for the thesis me thinks.

Yesterday Monday, I went over to Jonis apartment to discuss the plan of action for the coming week. Thanks to the local council, I had already compiled a list of prospective schools (primary and secondary) within the public and private sectors in communa 13. What was most notable was that all the public institutions were at least twice the size of the private equivalent; public all in excess of 1000 students, large private, no greater than 500. Whilst a more precise (like for like) comparison would have been preferred it wont not be possible therefore, I have decided to compare a selection of the large schools and add a selection of medium and small private to the list. A list totalling 23 schools was derived however in view of tight timescales, I have to develop a prioritised order based on a random sample. Having derived this sample, I could then work on a schedule and an entry strategy.
First the good news, after years of diligent study followed by a very good thesis, Joni has been awarded his masters degree. As if anticipating the good news, his prospective mother in law has brought him yet another attractive life partner with a great line in conversation; no, not Letycias sister but a parrot. Some might say that its not the most practical of gifts however we immediately found a use for it; his new pet was to be given the onerous duty of deriving a sampling order. We allocated numbers to each school, wrote them on a piece of paper and the parrot pecked at his preferences (photo to follow). Could you possibly be more random.
As we plotted the schools on a map, Joni congratulated the parrot on his selection, the priority schools being widely spread across the communa and often slap bang on neighbourhood boundaries. Whilst we now had names and addresses it would be up to Geraldo, our guide in Aguablanca to decide the best possible route. Next, I prepared a letter for the Jefe de Nucleo (Jairo) to sign, acknowledging our official presence in the area and requesting the support of each of the school directors. We made arrangements to meet up with both Geraldo and Jairo the following day in order to complete these tasks. Finally, the entry strategy. Myself and Joni agreed that it would be a good idea to dedicate this week to a short pilot study focussed on El Diamante (a large public school and Jairos base). Whilst this task was in progress, we would take a tour of the area and introduce ourselves to all the remaining schools on the list. With Jonis assistance, I would inform each director of the scope of the study, provide a description of the broader context and issue a commitment to follow up this research in the future.
Today, we met up with Geraldo as agreed outside of El Diamante and went in search of Jairo. Although he was elsewhere, the School Director was in his office and was happy to meet with us. Whilst polite and cordial, our man was a distant kind of chap with a certain mistrust of research (you get your qualification, then what!!). I was relieved that I had considered an entry strategy, not just to convince him of the worth of my own work but also to indicate its complimentary nature (with Jonis study) and its significance in terms of the greater body of research compiled by Newcastle Uni. Despite the carefully considered response, I think it was the fact that Joni was engaged to a Colombian that really convinced him of our commitment. For a moment, it seemed he was gonna demand the same from me. Finally, he accepted the set of questionnaires and asked us to return the following afternoon.
In the context of the pilot study, Geraldo suggested that we also visit a private school as a means of additional material review. We walked toward the neighbourhood of La Florida and from 100 yards away you could see an abrupt the change of scenery. Gone were the permanent brick structures to be replaced by the vulnerable wooden shacks of the extreme poor, many on stilts to avoid risk of flooding as the rain here often resembles a monsoon.
The director studies at the Fundacion Voluntad de Dios (the Will of God) was unavailable, so Geraldo suggested we take a stroll around the neighbourhood. Any previous thoughts regarding Aguablancas status as a slum have Im afraid to say, been completely dispelled. There is no regular fresh running water here, its hot and humid, dust fills the air and the smell of rotting garbage is everpresent. Whilst this is not my first time in a slum it always comes as a shock, not just the desperate nature of the surroundings but the fact that life is so radically different at the opposite end of the street (nevermind at the junction of Roosevelt and 39th). It is any wonder that these marginal zones (a euphemistic, official designation) are breeding grounds for violence and discontent. And yet for all the poverty, every single person we came across welcomed us, particularly the children who in this case were simply desperate for a hug from Geraldo and a photo opportunity. It was all very touching and I think you’ll agree that the results are really beautiful.

In sad contrast, we next met la abuela (the grandmother) whose facial features had been eaten away by some untreated illness and her whole body was painfully disfigured and contorted yet for all all her pain there was no hint of shame or bitterness, none whatsoever. I dont want to eulogise these people, turning them into heroic myths of the slum based on a few weeks of research simply trivialises and demeans them. However, most of these people have been displaced from their rural homes as a consequence of political and drug related crime, they understand the context in which theyre obliged to live/survive and the standards of living enjoyed by other people. Yet the majority appear to cope with admirable strength and stoicism. Thats just how I see it.
Just as we completed the loop of La Florida, the school director pulled up in front of his school. Whilst I wont be drawn towards any early conclusions regarding public/private education, the difference between the vaguely autocratic nature of the public director (who didnt even reveal his identity) and Sr Rigiberto Tique could not have been more stark. Rigoberto was similar in nature to Leonora, the foundation director I wrote about last week. There was nothing defensive about him, just a quiet, strong and diligent man who has dedicated his life to the local children and in particular this school. He showed us a DVD recording of the institution 10 years ago, at which point it was nothing more than a large wooden shack, no different to the surrounding structures, the kitchen was a couple of pots on open fire and the school population was less than 20. Now, thanks to the support of a Dutch foundation there is a clean, modern, permanant brick structure educating and feeding more than 300 students. Its a remarkable achievement in any context but in La Florida its little short of a miracle (or the will of God). We go through the introduction routine once again but unlike the previous director, Rigoberto was very supportive of our efforts to make a difference, no matter how small it may be. As the conversation drew to a close, Rigoberto accepted the climate questionnaires without fuss and asked us to return the following day to collect them.
We say goodbye to the staff and head back to the main road. Some of children run up and give us a big smile and a hug before we leave. If I had anything to do with it, I would oblige every single 18 year old in the west to spend one summer doing voluntary work in Aguablanca and similar places around the world, it would change their perspective for good (morally and permanently).

Once Geraldo had got a handle on research and the schools I wanted to assess, he suggested a visiting schedule for the following day. One significant point that he rasied was the difficulty of obtaining a parental perspective on climate based on a questionnaire delivered by their children, Geraldo believed that the majority would simply ignore it. Instead, he suggested that the director of studies invite a random sample of parents to the school in order to complete the survey, then and there. So in addition to the introductory presentation, I need to obtain a lists of parents and teachers in order to derive a credible research sample. That parrots gonna be real busy over the coming week.

Friday once again and Ive already been here for 3 weeks. The programme shifted into another gear today as Joni and myself arrive in Aguablanca for the monthly communa 13 meeting at the invitation of Jairo Anzulo. This time though we passed by the poorest and most desperate part of the neighbourhood. People displaced from their homes, often by the terror tactics of paramilitaries arrive here on a daily basis and there are no social services waiting for them. These outcastes live under what ever shelter they can find, scraps of wood and a few sheets of tarpaulin is about as good as it gets. Its grinding poverty and most find themselves here though no fault of their own. Very, very sad.
We arrive relatively early and as usual have to be positively identifed before we are permitted past the barrier. Were met by Jairo and a few of the local school representatives. Whilst we wait for the meeting to begin, we take a quick stroll through the school which is oriented around a pristine basketball court. The classrooms are sparse but clean and functional being equipped with chairs, tables and a blackboard. This is a public school and whilst most people have condemned them they are, on first impressions alone alot better than Id anticipated.
The meeting commenced about 15 mins later, which in Latino time is early, if you know what I mean. Jairo started the meeting with Joni and myself first of the agenda. By this stage 30+ school representatives had arrived and whilst Id prepared a very general presentation, I was a little nervous. Fortunately, Joni was there to get the ball rolling, many of the attendees recognised him and his Spanish is more than good enough to settle the crowd.
This is the first time that I have had to stand up in front of an audience and communicate in a language that is not my own. Whilst I was comfortable with the material, its strange how a certain lack of fluency effects your perception. The ordeal over, I continued to ask myself exactly what it was Id just said and more importantly did everyone understand it. For all that, I wasnt bombarded with (but I dont understand type) questions, I wasnt heckled and I think I said everything I intended to say with only a couple of prompts from Joni. Having finished, another guy got up to talk about whatever but needless to say I was already away on an adrenaline rush. It took community leader Hernan to bring me back to reality with a couple of films documenting his activities with local schools. The first film was made by an local youngster who clearly had a talent for painting but no-one to help him express that latent ability, no-one that is until Hernan came along. The second film was a festival of indigenous culture as the children learned to dance red indian style before being painted and performing a day long procession through the neighbourhood. So many happy young faces, so much joy despite everything, it makes you feel very humble indeed and the memories wont be lost as Hernan gave everyone a CD to inspire them. There will no doubt be difficult times ahead but these kinds of images are what gets you through the day. I really look forward to showing you all when I get back.
This was going to be an all day affair so we made our excuses and a quick exit but not before Id had a quick chat to a couple of the attendees. Jenny, a secretary at a private nursery was particularly interested in the project so we exchanged numbers and I promised to keep her updated.
The next appointment couldn’t have represented more of a contrast. During Jonis research period he was allocated a personal chaparone, Geraldo, a local NGO worker with a lot of experience in Aguablanca. It was his birthday and an opportune moment for us to meet and get to know one another. Naturally, the whole thing got decidedly messy as consecutive bottles of Aguadiente or White Teeth (the local version of Anis) were ordered. I hate anis but it was his birthday, he seemed like a nice guy and he has a really important role to play. So I took one for the team and shot the poison until 2 in morning. Before Id even hit fresh air my world was spinning and by then you know the next 24 hours are all but written off.

As seems to be the way in Colombia, myself and Joni were up early once again on Thursday for a meeting of local community leaders discussing the theme of violence in Aguablanca. In view of the significance of violence in relation to community life and education, we thought it would be a good idea to go along, however 7.00am does seem an unholy time to start a meeting. We were picked up by Leonora, the founder and inspiration of a local foundation attempting to keep children engaged when not at school. She has been doing voluntary work in Aguablanca for most of her life and is one of those people that appear to have the energy and enthusiasm of someone half her age. Shes a tiny, gentle person yet strong and engaging, the children clearly love and admire her and I hope that I will be able to help her group myself in the future.
Whilst it was very useful to meet some of the significant personalities is the area, including the chairman Dr Roberto Navarro, teachers, padres, a former gang member and other community leaders, the meeting itself was largely a political discussion of the group constitution and objectives. Unfortunately, little of any real substance was discussed regarding the nature and potential solutions to the problem, though one director of studies did speak very emotionally about the reality and pain of violence as opposed to the dry definitions written in policy documents.
It was the directors eloquent words that were on my mind as we left the school. We shared a ride with Dr Navarro who was heading for America to raise money for a park project that he described to us. We discussed it in the context of the hole in the wall project and he said that he had heard of the work of Sugata and would like to know more. As we said our goodbyes, the reality of Aguablanca and my place in it was beginning to sink in. The generosity of the people thus far has had a profound effect on me afterall to them I may be little more than a relatively spoilt, uninformed, naive, western student who like many others has come here to perform his research, get his qualification and then leave the people behind. Its really important to me that this doesnt happen, that my efforts here are perceived as practical and beneficial and not simply another research paper gathering dust. Change wont happen overnight but you have to show commitment to the cause if the people are to trust you and then who knows, maybe one day you can deliver something of real worth. Today, I leave Aguablanca with an overwhleming sense of humility, mixed with optimism and responsibility. Its a really good feeling too.
We returned to Rodrigos house and spent a good while discussing the content of the meeting and the causes of neighbourhood division. Rodrigo tells me that violent attacks have been on the increase of recent, probably as a consequence of higher unemployment and the global financial crisis. With little hope or opportunity, the gang symbology of solidarity, brotherhood, status and drug money make for a compelling alternative. Aguablanca is largely divided by mistrust along the boundary lines of the neighbourhoods, meaning that children will not go to a school on the other side of the street if it means crossing the boundary. Naturally, its this kind of fear and division that the gang leaders forment and feed on and the significance of education and communication in this context can not be underestimated. However even for those that do well at school, hopes for a better future can remain distant and precarious.
Having obtained the school data from the local council earlier in the week, I found sometime to have a closer look at it and attempt to understand its significance in the context of my studies. On the advise of Jairo, I have limited the scope of the research to Communa 13 and have identified 52 small to medium size private schools and 6 large public schools in the area. Whilst I would have preferred to compare like with like, its not going to be possible and I am going to have to change my sampling strategy a little to fit reality. The picture is further complicated by the number of different levels within the school system, so far I have identified 6: pre-school, primary, secondary, medium, special and adult. Its gonna require some more carful thought.

Tuesday morning and Joni and myself are up early to meet Jairo. Although Monday was good, today promises to be particularly special as this will be my first introduction to Aguablanca itself. Having been shaken by slums in the past, most notably in Bombay, Rawpindi and particularly Medan in Sumatra, I feel a degree of nervous trepidation, exaggerated by the violent reputation that proceeds this area of the city.
What first strikes you about Aguablanca is how clean and organised it appears on the surface, real slums arent supposed to look like this, are they? Whilst the government have designated this area a marginal zone beyond local authority control, the official boundary between this side of Aguablanca and the adjacent suburb of Cali is asthetically almost indistinguishable, little more than a layer of decorative plaster.
Having arrived early, Joni and myself pop into a local shop for a bite to eat and we talk about first impressions. It seems Joni also struggled with the idea that Aguablanca could fit neatly into the common perception of a slum, he even added a UNESCO definition into his thesis as clarification. Unlike the common perception, the houses are not the standard tarpaulin covered wooden shacks but permanent brick structures, there is electricity and drainage and the roads whilst potholed are no worse than the rest of the city. What makes Aguablanca slumlike is inevitably the total absence of security, even the taxi driver had warned us not to venture any deeper into the neighbourhood(Comuna)than our present location.
We met Snr Jairo Anzulo (Jefe del Nucleo for communa 13) at his office in the local public school. He welcomed us warmly, remembering Joni from his own period of research and listened attentively as I described my plans and how they were designed to complement Jonis work. Jairo casts an eye over the questionnaires and asks a couple of questions of his own. He then informs us that there is a meeting this Friday of all the school representatives in his communa and that it would be a good idea to present the research plan to them directly. This is an excellent idea, however it means Im gonna have to stand up in front of 40+ people and describe school climate, in Spanish. We thank Jairo for his time and cooperation, I take a couple of pictures of the school and were back on the street.
The rest of the day is spent reading about Philanthropy, preparing the mini-research questionnaire and the document framework. On Tuesday night I moved house. Whilst Joni and Letycia have been perfect hosts Im not one to outstay my welcome.
Im strangely proud of the fact that I can fit almost all of my worldly possessions into a couple of large suitcases, consequently putting an even smaller proportion into my rucksack takes no time at all. Soon, Im across town at the Torres Plazuelas at junction of Roosevelt and 39th Street. Sounds very NY glam but in actual fact, the space is dominated by a huge Mickey D.
Lucia looked at me aghast as I entered the flat, where on earth are all your clothes she asked. I presumed she was referring to the size of my rucksack, as opposed to some x-ray vision thing. I explained that I preferred to travel light and recounted one long trip into the mountains of Pakistan where I was obliged to wear the same pair of underpants for an unholy period of time. As soon as I’d said it I knew that as ice breakers go, that probably wasnt the best, particularly for a lady as house proud as Lucia (see photo). So rather than dig a deeper hole, I make my excuses and turned in.

Just as I was beginning to feel a twinge of anxiety regarding the data gathering process which after all is the principle reason for my presence here, a number of significant and very positive events occur in quick succession. First thing Monday morning, Joni attempted to contact Jairo Anzola one of the local education managers or Jefes de Nucleo in Comuna (area) 13 and someone he had had close contact with during his own research period. However, despite numerous attempts Jairo wasnt answering his mobile phone. Fortunately Joni has established many contacts in his time here, including the aunt of his girlfriend Letycia, who just happens to be a Jefe de Nucleo herself. Whilst I went to the local shopping centre to buy yet another mobile phone, auntie used her influence to contact Jairo and make an appointment for us at 9.00 the following morning. I returned to the apartment to be met by the good news and Rodrigo who had offered to take me to the local council offices in order to acquire the most recent set of social/contextual data available. Having worked there for 2 years himself, Rodrigo has numerous contacts and it wasnt long before we were talking to Daniel regarding my specific needs. On this occasion, my investigation into school climate requires that I identify institutions of similar size for relative comparison. Colombian law requires that schools register with the authorities hence, the council database represents a very authentic profile of private and public schooling and student numbers. Daniel dutifully downloaded the information to a memory stick but we werent finished there. Rodrigo ushered me from floor to floor as we acquired more literature regarding the social and economic portrait of Cali. There is a lot of valuable information here but its going to take a little time to trawl through it all and cherrypick the aspects most relevant to my studies.
After a morning of positive progress, I was on a high and offered to take Rodrigo to lunch. We were close to the most cosmopolitan area of city, Granada and for a short time we simply wandered around talking about the significance of the information we had acquired. Realising our precise location, Rodrigo had a further brainwave and took me to the nearby offices of FES, a national foundation investing in a range of social projects that focus specifically on the needs of the poor and excluded. We spoke with a director Hector and briefly with the senior manager Marco Antonio, both of whom were extremely welcoming and positive. My specific area of interest is educational philanthropy; how foundations are able to assist the poor and the scope and processes associated with their work. Once again the impromptu meeting was highly beneficial as it realigned a few of my misconceptions, most notably the fact that foundations undertake specific investigations and investments on a general level rather than donate directly to specific schools or families. This change in perception effects the direction and scope of the investigation as it leans more towards the work of the foundations and away from the specific efforts of the schools. The research instrument will require amendment to match this change in understanding. In conclusion, Hector and I agreed to discuss the subject further once we could arrange a suitable time.
Rodrigo and I caught the bus back home in rush hour. It was one of those typically ancient, rusting affairs you see throughout the developing world. The experience is further intensified by a road weary driver who invariably believes that the pedals have just a couple of settings, fully on or fully off. Consequently, the bus fills rapidly with exhaust fumes as he puts his foot to or even through the floor. You may reach cruising speed and youll certainly be naucious, at which point the passengers are dumped in an unedifying heap as our man brakes hard to avoid the latest hazard. For all that, its still one of those -must do- experiences.
I had planned on moving into my new apartment this evening but Im tired, I havent eaten or packed and Im due to be there in 10 minutes. I decide against it and give Lucia a call, I suggest we put the move back 24 hours and she has no problem with that. Given the extra time, I buy myself and Rodigo a couple of beers at a local bar as reward for a job well done.
Before I sign off for the night I just want to mention one further Cali phenomenon that has recently come to my attention; cosmetic surgery. Im told and the evidence on the street is comprehensive, that operations are extremely cheap here and that many women have a plastic accessory or two. However you cant always guess whats been done and dear reader, youre gonna have a problem getting your head around this one. A couple days ago, I happen to comment, politely of course about the somewhat disproportionate size and yet erect form of a certain womans bum and to my endless amusement, Joni indicated that it was probably fake. Imagine that, a petit Colombian woman telling her friends that her bum is far too small and deciding to have a couple of plastic inserts a la Jeni Lopez. Not a phenomena thats gonna reach the UK anytime soon Ill wager.

Now that Semana Santa is over, schools reopen and the real work can begin. Ive completed my questionnaires having integrated further content regarding parental choices and philanthropy. All that remains is for Rodrigo to cast a critical eye over my Spanish version at which point we will be ready to commence the pilot study. Before we can actually enter Aguablanca though we have to contact the authorities in order to obtain the necessary paperwork and inform the schools of our plans. The next few days will be about phone calls and meeting local officials and explaining, on numerous occasions no doubt, what it is Im trying to achieve.
In the meantime, Rodrigo, his work colleague Juan and myself take a taxi to the south of the city in order to meet my new landlady and cast an eye over my new digs. I say digs in the loosest sense of the word as no grubby student is worthy of this space. Lucia lives on the corner of Roosevelt and 39th street on the 15th and highest floor of the block. Her apartment is modern, spacious and absolutely spotless with eye popping views of downtown Cali and the mountains to the west. Lucia herself is an energetic middle age widow, she works in the national bank and lives alone bar the occasional visits from her daughter, a student in Bogota and her nephew, a traveling engineer. There is a very good rapport between us all and but for the odd, lo siento no entiendo, lost in translation moment, I feel pretty comfortable in my new surroundings. Lucia shows me round her flat and we negotiated a price. I say negotiate, she gave me a price and I agreed. To be honest it is relatively expensive, however for 125 quid a month I get the run of the place for almost the entire working day, I get total peace and quiet for my studies and I can give Joni and Letycia the personal space they clearly need. Everyones a winner, even the insecure cocker spaniel that growls at strangers when they leave the apartment. Having become acquainted over fresh mango chunks and several glasses of cool Argentinian White, I agree to move in the next evening. We say goodbye to Lucia and her nephew before taking a quick stroll around the local neighbourhood. Being Holy Sunday its fairly quiet but we find a panaderia/bakery and order three of the largest hamburgers youll ever see. I wont be eating again for a couple of days.

As previously mentioned, the whole catholic world enters penitence mode this week and Cali is no different. In Seville, Semana Santa or Holy Week is played out on a grand scale and attracts hordes of tourists. Each church has a slot in the weekly timetable at which point they carry their religious icons through the streets, day and night. The processions themselves are also on a collosal scale as 40 costaleros (strong men) are required to carry the icon on a curcuit of the city which passes through the principle cathedral. Each icon is followed by 1000s of penitents in hooded outfits that bear a sinister resemblance to that of the KKK. The catholic symbolism of purity and family is illustrated in the form of the Virgin Mary whilst the pain and sacrifice of life takes the form of the passion of Christ. This is no trivial occasion, it goes to the heart of catholic life and people get very emotional, particular if its raining and the church misses its slot in the schedule. Inclement weather can mean that some churches have to wait years to play an active part in the tradition. I’m not sure that I understand or even care much for the symbolic significance of the event but as a cultural and artistic phenomena its not to be missed. The Cali version is not on the same scale as that of Seville but is no less interesting, particularly as the broad city avenues allow uninterrupted access to the entire event. Somewhat predictably, the local dignitories take pride of place at the front of the procession, the archbishop is followed by his clergy who in turn are followed by the local mayor and his principal administrators. The next group in line Im sorry to say, are the top brass in the Army who in view of Jesus lack of military service, provide an incongruent juxtaposition to the entire event. Representatives of local church communities then pass accompanied by adolescent bands playing upbeat tunes of Simon and Garfunkel and The Beatles, very much opposed to the more sombre tones common at these eveents. The entire procession passed off in less than a couple of hours and Im pleased to say that my soul felt sufficiently cleansed to kickstart my sinning almost immediately. For some reason Joni and Letycia had agreed to meet Maria Jose and her friends in a pseudo British Pub, presumably so that I would feel at home. It was a nice gesture but why anyone would travel thousands of miles for a slice of home remains a mystery to me. The principle attraction was a local band doing a typical set of cover versions of British pop bands. Meanwhile, Maria Jose was working her way though the list of cocktails including the oversized Margaret Thatcher, so called presumably because it leaves you with a bitter aftertaste and has dire longterm consequences. Needlesstosay thanks to Thatcher, I wasnt in much of a fit state to do a great deal of work the following day.
Everything closes during Samana Santa so this week has been predominantly about further reading and developing an understanding of Latin American and Colombian education system. In this context, I have made a good start on the assignment: Why poor parents choose private education for their children when a public alternative is available. Anecdotally, my new friends have indicated that the reason is clear, administrators dont send their children to public schools, consequently they dont invest in them. An analysis of the government tax and spending profiles and school test results in the public sector suggest that they have a strong case however, the argument is not quite as clear cut as first appears. As a consequence of consecutive neo-liberal governments, Colombia is in the process of privatisating and decentralising a large portion of the education system. In principal at least, the poorest will have greater access to private sector through a sophisticated system of grants, concessions and vouchers. How this system works, what percentage of the poor acquire access and what are the results, all this remains under investigation.