Bermuda field trip September 2012

Well, where to start?!  Another eventful trip to the Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences (BIOS) is coming to an end, and as always, we’ve had a great time.  Following issues with hurricanes in 2010 and 2011 we were relieved when we all got checked-in at Gatwick for the start of our trip.  After a slightly bumpy landing we arrived at BIOS in time for a late dinner on Wednesday 12th September, after which the 25 students on the trip received an induction talk from the Reservations Manager, Jane Burrows.  After a long journey we gave them the rest of the night off, so they were fresh and ready to start work on Thursday morning.  The students first got a tour of BIOS and the opportunity to check out the amazing facilities here.  They then got stuck into work with two lectures from one of the Newcastle staff, Dr Sara Marsham, taking them through coral and fish ID and introducing them to the common organisms they were likely to see on the local reefs.  After a hearty lunch (there is no chance of going hungry here!) we set off to Walsingham to visit the mangrove and cave systems there.  Dready was our guide and got all of the students jumping off ledges into one of the salt-water ponds in the mangroves and then led them on a snorkel through one of the large caves.

Snorkeling in Walsingham Caves

The evening saw Dr Andrew Peters give a lecture on the anatomy of Bermuda as an oceanic island and present some of the research his group have been conducting into water and air quality around the islands.

Friday was the first chance for us to get in the water and the morning saw us snorkeling a new site that we had not visited before at Bailey’s Bay.  Within the Bay were the Pigeon Rocks around which was a great coral reef with lots of fish species.  We saw parrot fish, butterfly fish, lizard fish and even a remora sat on the sandy floor!

A remora at Bailey’s Bay

After getting to grips with snorkelling on the reefs, Friday afternoon was planned for reef survey method development at Tobacco Bay.  Unfortunately we had to abandon this plan soon after getting into the water as a huge storm came in complete with thunder, lightening and horizontal rain!  Not the best conditions for laying a transect!

Sheltering from the storm at Tobacco Bay

After getting dry and warm back at BIOS, Sara along with the other member of Newcastle staff, Prof. Matt Bentley, ran a coral point count practical on Friday evening.  This introduced the students to a different technique of surveying the coral cover using video transects and VLC software.

Saturday saw us take the public bus to the Bermuda Aquarium Museum and Zoo (BAMZ).  This was not just a bit of fun for the students; they had to observe both the marine and terrestrial organisms in captive environments and understand the role of aquaria and zoo in conservation and management programmes.  As usual there was a wide array of both marine and terrestrial organisms on display, including Sara’s favourites, the giant tortoises.

Happy after being stroked 🙂

After the aquarium and zoo we went up to the far end of the islands and visited the historic dockyards, where there is a maritime museum, Dolphin Quest and shopping malls.  One of our students is an animal trainer and knew the staff at Dolphin Quest so managed to give some of the students the opportunity to swim with the dolphins!

Sunday saw us on our way to South Shore to learn about the local geology and flora from our guide, Rob Chandler.  We started at Warwick Long Bay and walked along the lithified sand dunes to Horseshoe Bay.  The day was scorching hot so after a quick packed lunch at Horseshore Bay we headed into the sea for a swim to cool down.

Cooling down at Horseshoe Bay

After the swim we got the public bus back to BIOS and the afternoon was spent project planning ready for project data collection after the weekend.  However, before the data collection could begin, on Monday morning the students had a tour of the BIOS research vessel, the R/V Atlantic Explorer followed by a lecture on the BATS time-series data programme delivered by James Sadler.

The original plan was then to go to Nonsuch Island in the afternoon to visit an area of Bermuda that has been restored back to its native state.  Most of the invasive species affecting the rest of the islands have been removed and the area has been replanted with native and endemic species.  There is also a breeding programme for the endemic cahow, which is a nocturnal seabird once thought to be extinct on the islands.  In 2012 there are now 101 breeding pairs using Nonsuch Island.

However, the vessel we normally use to ferry us around was out of action with a broken oil pump and the other vessel, the R/V Rumline was in use by another group.  So, as is often the case with field work, plan B was initiated, which involved the project groups taking themselves off to Whalebone Bay or Tobacco Bay to start their project work.  Sara and Matt stayed back at BIOS to catch up with their marking 🙁

After a successful afternoon in the water, the students had another evening lecture, this time delivered by Dr Kristen Buck that covered microbial oceanography.  Every year this lecture is well received by the students and this time was no different, with them enthusing about oceanography at the end of it!

So, Tuesday morning and we headed to Nonsuch with our guide Gary, who also brought along his mother-in-law and her friend to join the group!  The R/V Rumline moored just off the Island and we all swam ashore to start our adventure.  Little did we know the adventure was only just beginning…

Approaching Nonsuch Island

After two hours wandering around and learning about the Island and the conservation efforts, we swam back to our vessel to start the long journey back to BIOS for a late lunch.  However, the R/V Rumline had another plan in mind…  Problems with the engine meant we were not going anywhere, and the only boat big enough to tow us was out taking another group on a dive.  So a rescue mission was launched with three different vessels of varying size carrying passengers from five to twelve coming to take us back ashore.  The students didn’t seem to mind and spent the time waiting swimming and practising their diving technique off the side of the boat.  Just over three hours later, Sara, Matt and the two remaining students finally made it back to BIOS for a very late lunch (what did I say about not going hungry…?!).  Thankfully George in the kitchen had saved us some food!

The first rescue mission on R/V Mussel Pie

Students making the most of the wait!

Which brings us to today…  Some students continued with project work this morning by heading off to Tobacco Bay while another group went on R/V Sea Dance to the Hogbreaker reef to collect their project data at an offshore site.  The rest of us?  Well, thanks to J.P. Skinner we took the opportunity to take Polaris and visit another new site nine nautical miles offshore where there was the impressive wreck of the Madiana that was built in Scotland in 1877 and wrecked off of Bermuda in 1903.  Both boilers and the drive shaft were clearly visible from the surface and the coral and fish abundance was stunning!

Boiler of the Madiana

This afternoon students are finishing collecting their project data at Whalebone Bay and Tobacco Bay before a coral lab tonight.  Tomorrow each group will give us a presentation on their projects: what they did, why they did it, how they collected their data, and their preliminary findings before we go back to the airport and fly back to Gatwick.

Monday will see Sara and Matt back on campus in Newcastle to welcome the new Stage 1 students, with these Stage 3 students returning for their induction on Tuesday.  The weather here has been good to us (apart from that afternoon at Tobacco Bay!) so we hope it is nice and sunny in Newcastle…?

Blog 7: Risso’s Dolphin Necropsy 21/07/2012

Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project 2012

Blog 7: Risso’s Dolphin Necropsy 21/07/2012

Saturday the 21st of July was the start of Ramadhan in Zanzibar which, coupled with a rough sea, resulted in the project team enjoying a quiet day off. We used this precious down-time to get some computer based project work done and to do some washing. After a fairly relaxing morning, the team received a call from Pandu (one of our local contacts) who informed us a by-caught dolphin had been landed in our neighbouring village, Kizimkazi-Mkunguni. After quick preparations to bring the necropsy kit and data forms together we were driven straight to Mkunguni to take photos and collect samples from the dolphin.

The “dolphin” found by fishermen from Kizimkazi-Mkunguni

The “dolphin” found by fishermen from Kizimkazi-Mkunguni

 However, when we arrived, to our surprise we discovered it wasn’t a bottlenose or humpback dolphin but a species we don’t normally see in the waters around southern Zanzibar. We were relieved when we found out the fishers found it dead and floating in the water meaning it was not another by-caught dolphin. At first glance, Kyla thought it might be a pygmy killer whale (Feresa attenuata) or melon-headed whale (Peponocephala electra) based on the body size, shape and colouration but we were baffled as some features, such as the very tall dorsal fin and the teeth (or lack thereof!) didn’t seem right. Of course, after sending photos to the project leader Dr Per Berggrenat Newcastle, he suggested it might be a Risso’s dolphin calf; Risso’s dolphins (Grampus griseus) are very scratched resulting in a greyish colouration but a calf/juvenile is still quite dark and Risso’s dolphins have very few teeth.

 Kristin and Kyla looking for the teeth…and only finding two tiny ones at the front!

Kristin and Kyla looking for the teeth…and only finding two tiny ones at the front!

 As soon as we arrived at the fish market at the beach in Mkunguni we started taking photos, measurements and collected tissue samples of the dolphin. As mentioned above, no teeth could be seen initially; we thought it might be an older animal with very worn teeth, but on close inspection we found two very small teeth at the front of the jaw. So, a section of the jaw bone with the two teeth was removed as a sample. The cause of death was not identifiable as there were no external signs such as lacerations, or injury from fishing gear, however, the animal looked under nourished. We were not able to conduct a complete necropsy on the animal but we collected the stomach contents for possible dietary analyses.

 Yunusu, a friend of the project, helping us collect samples

Yunusu, a friend of the project, helping us collect samples

Members of the research team checking out the Risso’s calf with fishers from Mkunguni watching with curiosity.

Members of the research team checking out the Risso’s calf with fishers from Mkunguni watching with curiosity.

One thing we didn’t think about when we collected the bucket of guts to take back with us was the smell we’d have to endure on the drive back to Kizimkazi-Dimbani! We ended up driving the entire way with back of the car open, much to the amusement of all the locals. All in all, it was a very unexpected but interesting day!

Photographs © Zanzibar Humpback whale Project

 

 

Blog 6: First whales of the season! 15/07/2012

Blog 6: First whales of the season! 15/07/2012

Early Sunday morning was a very exciting day for the Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project team. A local fisher called us reporting two whales in the area outside Makunduchi off the southeast coast of Zanzibar. We eagerly got our equipment together, jumped into our boat and headed in the direction given by the fisher. We were hopeful to find the whales although it takes about an hour to reach Makunduchi from Kizimkazi-Dimbani. And they were! Kristin was the first to spot a blow about 1500m ahead of us. The team sprang into action, with spotters at the bow and behaviour recorders at the stern, all barely able to contain their excitement at finally seeing the first whales of the season! The whales turned out to be a mother, her calf and an escort whale travelling slowly along the south east corner of the island with beautiful tail dives providing excellent opportunities for photo ID. After an hour the whales started travelling faster and were soon too far away so we left them alone to survey for other whales.

It was during our lunch break that Kyla suddenly shouted ‘Whale!!’ She had spotted a breaching whale 2500m, directly ahead of us. Lunch was quickly packed up and replaced by cameras and other equipment. There were two adult whales and a juvenile which were socializing and resting. We followed them until we had collected enough data and then decided to leave them alone. The wind was picking up and we decided to head home, very happy with our two first whale sightings.

On the way back we decided to do some target practise with the crossbow with an old life jacket, with the intention of collecting future small biopsy samples from the whales. Skin and blubber samples will be used for genetic studies to investigate how the whales off Zanzibar are related to those found in other areas off Africa and elsewhere around the world.

Back at the house, we discussed the day’s activities over dinner. After months of preparation we had successfully conducted our first whale survey. It gave our new students Yussuf, Nat and Lynne a great opportunity to practise the data collection and to see what happens when we encounter a whale. We all went to bed happy and excited at the prospect of seeing more whales in the morning.

Blog 5 of Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project 2012

Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project 2012
Blog 5: Elevating our survey approach 13/07/2012

This year the survey methods are being broadened to increase our survey area and the type of data we collect to improve our ability to research the humpback whales off Zanzibar and East Africa. One opportunity to do this has come in the form of Makunduchi Lighthouse which provides a unique, 44m above sea level, platform from which to conduct land based survey of cetaceans and boat traffic. The lighthouse sub-team lead by Dr Per Berggren  assisted by Nat and Yussuf travelled to Makunduchi Lighthouse to calibrate the survey equipment ready for a 10 day pilot study which will start later in the season. It was incredibly hot and we soon valued the shade provided by the light housing and the bottled water we had brought.

Yussuf and Nat at the Makunduchi lighthouse 

We use mounted binoculars to allow for tracking of the whales focusing on positioning but also to study respiration rates and behaviour of the whales and how these may be altered by interactions with vessels also using the area.

The views from the lighthouse will hopefully provide the perfect area to survey the passing whales but unfortunately there were no whales to be seen during this first visit. Instead we utilised our research boat to calibrate the method to estimate distance by knowing the GPS locations of both the lighthouse and the boat and the number of binocular range reticles that this distance was equivalent to.


Yussuf calibrating the binoculars, see the boat?
We will provide an update later from 10-day lighthouse pilot study.

Photographs © Zanzibar Humpback whale Project

Blog 4: Disentanglement and Whale Watching Workshop

Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project 2012
Blog 4: Disentanglement and Whale watching 12/07/2012

The humpback whales in Zanzibar coastal waters are being entangled in artisanal drift and bottom set gillnets and in lines to fish traps. This is bad both for the whales that may die unless they can free themselves from the gear and for the fishers that risk losing their equipment and only source of income.

Humpback whales entangled in gillnets off Zanzibar

To address this problem and to assist in the development of sustainable whale watching as a potential new source of income to the local communities we arranged a 2-day Workshop 10-11 July 2012 at Kizimkazi-Dimbani on the south coast of Zanzibar. The Workshop built on two previous Workshops held in 2010 and 2011. The first day of the Workshop was dedicated to bycatch mitigation using “weak-links” as a possible mitigation measure which was introduced during the previous years’ Workshops and to assess the effectiveness of the disentanglement teams that was trained in 2010. The second day of the Workshop was dedicated to developing guidelines for sustainable whale watching. Each day was introduced by presentations for each Workshop topic by Dr Omar Amir (Zanzibar Ministry of Livestock and Fisheries) and Dr Per Berggren (Newcastle University) followed by discussions and recommendations from the Workshop.


Bycatch mitigation and whale watching Workshop participants

“Weak-links” make the nets break into smaller panels of nets if a whale swims into the net and can thus prevent entanglement which saves both whales and the fishers’ nets. Two “weak-link” nets were made in 2011 and have been trialled during the past year. Mr Pandu, the fisher responsible for the “weak-link” nets, reported that the nets have worked very well and had similar target fish catch as non-modified nets. No whales had been entangled in the “weak-link” nets during the trial year so it was not possible to assess their effectiveness to prevent whale entanglements. Mr Pandu still encouraged all fishers to introduce “weak-links” in their bottom set and drift gillnets. After some discussion all present fishers agreed that they would implement “weak-links” in their nets. Last year fishers were provided with the materials to make “weak-links” and arrangements were made at the Workshop for distribution of the materials.


Example of “weak-link” made using hogrings (metal clamps)
©Jamison Smith

The disentanglement teams that were trained in 2010 and 2011 respond to whales that get entangled in nets and use specialised gear provided to free whales from the nets.  The teams gave a demonstration at the Workshop of the gear and procedures for how to disentangle whales. There is currently one set of specialised gear and the disentanglement teams expressed the need for a second set so that there would be one available in the south and one in the north of the Island facilitating response in the two main fishing and likely entanglement areas. The Workshop agreed that it would be beneficial to demonstrate the use of the existing gear as an argument when seeking funds for a second set.

 
Humpback whale by catch entanglement team in action
©Jake Levenson

The second day of the Workshop was dedicated to developing guidelines for sustainable whale watching. The introductory presentations have information about current dolphin tourism in Zanzibar and plans for development of whale watching activities. Further, information was presented on whale watching in other countries and the guidelines and regulations used in e.g. Australia and USA. This information was used as a starting point for discussion and Dr. Berggren further presented suggested guidelines for whale watching that was then discussed. The socio-economy of both dolphin tourism and whale watching was discussed and how the income for the local operators could be improved. Further, the current conflict between gillnet fishers that accidentally kill dolphins as bycatch and dolphin tourism operators was also debated. It was decided that these discussions would continue and be resolved in a meeting following the Workshop.

 

Humpback whale watching off Zanzibar

 Overall the Workshop was very successful with participants agreeing to use “weak-links” to mitigate whale bycatch in gillnets and agreement on the need to adopt guidelines for best practice for dolphin tourism and whale watching. Dr. Amir informed the Workshop that the Ministry of Livestock and Fisheries are preparing regulations for both fisheries and tourism activities within the Menai Bay and Mnemba Island Conservation areas. The Workshop was organised jointly by the Zanzibar Ministry of Livestock and Fisheries, the Institute of Marine Sciences, University of Dar es Salaam, with support from the Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project, the University of Newcastle, the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW). There were over 40 participants with representation from most stakeholders including: Government, fishers and their organisations, Kizimkazi Dolphin Tourism Operators Association (KIDOTOA) and the Menai Bay Conservation Area representatives and Researchers.

Photographs © Zanzibar Humpback whale Project

 

Blog 2: Lighthouse visit

Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project 2012

Blog 2: Lighthouse visit 07/07/2012

Just before arriving to the project, we received news that we had permission to conduct surveys from the Makunduchi lighthouse located on the southeast tip of Zanzibar Island! In addition to the vessel based surveys we would like to add a land-based component to the research this year. Land-based surveys are useful because they are less restricted by weather conditions and do not affect the data collection by disturbing the animals. Prior to initiating land-based surveys we wanted to visit the lighthouse to check if it would be suitable for binocular and theodolite surveys; if it was suitable the pilot study would be initiated over the next couple of weeks to collect additional data on humpback whale occurrence and behavior.

The lighthouse at Makunduchi

 The lighthouse at Makunduchi

Dr. Per, Nat and Lynne landed in the Stonetown airport, Zanzibar on the morning of Saturday July 7th. Kristin and Kyla had arrived some days earlier and taken care of the first weekly food shopping in Stone town before meeting up with Per, Nat and Lynne at “our” house in the village Kizimkazi-Dimbani (on the southwest coast of the Island). Almost immediately after arriving to the house Juma, the owner of our house, a local friend and working partner through IMS, drove us to Makunduchi to see the lighthouse. The drive from Kizimkazi-Dimbani to Makunduchi is only 20 minutes but from the village to the lighthouse the track was not good at all; we bounced over sharp coral rag and sharp bushes scratched and squeaked along the sides of the car! We cringed with each squeak and hoped Juma’s car was not too damaged by the trip.

The lighthouse looming above us!

The lighthouse looming above us!

The lighthouse looming above us!When we arrived we piled out of the car and looked up at a beautiful red and white (but peeling and somewhat faded!) stone lighthouse looming above us. Two local men (Mr. Abdallah and Mr. Maneno), responsible for the upkeep and maintenance of the lighthouse, were there to meet us and show us around. After a brief exchange of greetings in Swahili we were soon climbing the 165 steps to the top of the 27 m building (44 m above sea level). The climb was definitely worth it…views of the sea along the east and south coasts and the villages and low, scrubby forests of the island stretched out before us. It was quite peaceful at the top of the lighthouse with the sound of sea breezes and goats bleating in the shrubbery below.

We were keen to spot whales and immediately began scanning with our binoculars but, unfortunately for us, there were no whales this time. It is early in the season so we anticipate whales soon and after seeing the lighthouse decided it will be a feasible location for a pilot study.

Zanzibar Port Corporation sign inside the 27 m lighthouse (44 m above sea level!)Zanzibar Port Corporation sign inside the 27m lighthouse (44 m above sea level!)

Views from the top!

Views from the top

Nat scanning for whales

Nat scanning for whales

Blog 1: Humpback Whale Research Project

Humpback Whale Research Project

Blog 1: Touch down in paradise…the team arrives in Zanzibar!

It’s hard to believe it’s been eight months since Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Project team last conducted surveys in the waters of southern Zanzibar but, after much anticipation and planning, the team is back in Kizimkazi-Dimbani! Most of us arrived a week ago and from the get-go have been busy, busy sorting out permits, stocking the house with food and supplies, organizing research equipment, training new team members and looking at a site for land-based surveys for a pilot study we will conduct this year. This has been a very productive week and we even completed four boat surveys. The boat surveys are conducted to study the occurrence and behaviour of the humpback whales arriving here, for breeding and mating, from the waters of the Antarctic where they spent the winter feeding!

This year’s Zanzibar Humpback Whale Research Team
(missing: Jessica and Khamis Khamis)

This year the research team consists of three returning and three new research staff and students: Kristin, will once again be the Field Principle Investigator (her fourth season!); Kyla, will be a research assistant (her second season) and will take over for Kristin when she leaves in August, and Yussuf, is returning as one of our local Zanzibarian research assistants (his second season). Yussuf graduated from the University of Dar Es Salaam last year and currently works with the Institute of Marine Sciences in Stonetown and we are very happy to have him back!  In addition to the returning staff, we welcome four new assistants for 2012 including: Nat (Nathaniel Stephenson) and Lynne Payne, two, undergraduate 3rd year students from Newcastle University; Khamis, another Zanzibarian student from IMS; and, in mid-August, Jessica, will be joining us as a research assistant until the end of the season. In addition to the research team we will be working with our local captains, Khamis and Foum, again. Khamis has been working with the project for 15 years now and Foum 5 years and we are lucky to have them with us for another humpback whale research season!

Institute of Marine Sciences, Stonetown – One of our working partners in Zanzibar

The project’s Principle Investigator, Dr Per Berggren of Newcastle University, also arrived last week to help with project start-up, help the new students settle in and to organise and participate in a workshop on whale fisheries by-catch mitigation and development of best practice for whale watching activities at the Menai Bay Conservation Area offices here in Kizimkazi-Dimbani. The workshop ran for two days and included presentations and discussion on increasing the use of weak links on fishing nets (to reduce whale by-catch), developing a commercial whale watch industry in addition to dolphin watching, and the development of regulations for both whale and dolphin watching activities. Overall, Per was very pleased with the workshop and felt the issues discussed were heading in a positive direction.

Participants in the humpback whale workshop at the Menai Bay Centre, Kizimkazi-Dimbani

The beautiful beach at Kizimkazi-Dimbani – our home away from home!

Marine Consultancy MSc students get hagfished

It is with great pleasure I get to place the first blog to the new site. It is even more exciting that I can do this on behalf our International Marine and Environmental Consultancy (IMEC) MSc students, who as I write this, are making me insanely jealous doing boat work in the fine weather while I’m tied to the office today.

Yes, it is MSc project time and this year we have six students from among the IMEC programme undertaking the ambitious task of conducting an Environmental Impact Assessment of the National Renewable Energy Centre marine wind farm development planned (conveniently for us) just off our local coast.

Blyth offshore turbine

Based aboard Newcastle University’s brand new catamaran research vessel “The Princess Royal”, the students have 15 sea days to collect the data ultimately required to deliver their project, an EIA work package. This is career relevant skill development in the fast lane. By the end they will have led their own work package and supported sampling with a wide range of techniques (trammel netting, sediment grabs, drop camera, swathe bathymetry, visual and acoustic mammal survey). Their final reports will be presented to a client panel including members of two different environmental consultancies, a regulator and the developer.
But I get ahead of myself. Eight days in and with the sun shining and almost perfect sea conditions I joined those on the boat for a day of trammel netting (a curtain like net set on the seabed) and sediment grabs. I took with me Abi (a former IMEC student herself) and Richard from RSS Marine, a consultancy near Filey in Yorkshire who came to grab a few quality control and training samples. What better way to meet potential employers than to work alongside them.
Meeting at 8:00 to kit up we headed out at around 8:30am and spent the first hour of two steaming a circuit dropping trample nets on pre-identified points out to about 3nm. This was followed by about 3 hours of sediment grabs (replicated drops a 4 sites) which were sieved onboard and then a repeat of the circuit picking up the nets after a 4 hour soak. It looked bad when the first haul went for a duck. Catches picked up however, with the biggest catch of the sampling programme to date obtained that day.

Clare and Fabrice settle in for the transit to the first study site

A particular favourite of the day was a catch of hagfish, a scavenging/carrion species of primitive jawless fish that play an important role in recycling nutrients. They are also one of my favourite fish despite (or perhaps because of) being totally disgusting. They are eel like, capable of secreting a huge volume of slimy mucus for defence and have the rather pleasant habit of eating a fish from inside out leaving only a bag of skin containing bones. They were hitting our catch of the day hard and are a major pain to local fisheries. Still with fair weather we finished an hour or so early. After an early start, sun, sea and as good meal I was out for the count. It was a fantastic day.

Catch of the day ... hagfish anyone?