Musings about Grand Turk

Having been here for two weeks now, I am falling more and more in love with this beautiful place! People are so lovely and friendly, there are amazing views over the ocean with all its colours, and you see all the donkeys and ponies running around on the streets… life seems to stand still (even though we have got hardly any time, being as busy as ever).

Last night we spend at Mitch Rollings (he is a “want to be rock star, apparently you can buy his music on Itunes”) amazing private bar… it is in his garden, just next to the beach. Had a fantastic time with lovely people.

Then there are our “permanent” guests – who we sadly have seen very little of the last few days- Smitty and his sidekick Jason (just like Batman and Robin), who come round to our house to cook for us and entertain us!

On my bike everybody is waving and saying hello to me! Now I remember why I love those little islands! Find me here, if I might just “accidentally” miss my flight back to the UK!

First Community Meeting on Grand Turk

Last week we had our first community meeting on Grand Turk. Having got to know only few people before the meeting, we tried to invite as many people as we could, spreading the word in the community, talking to people and handing out flyers/ posting posters. While we had only a select few number of people (10), everybody enjoyed themselves! We had some great enthusiastic discussion in our first exercise, creating a historical timeline, and found out a number of interesting facts about West Road community and Grand Turk in general.

Afterwards we did some verification of the maps that we had previously established, and again had a great discussion on how different areas are being used.

All in all everybody seems really excited about the project and cannot wait to get on with all the interviews!

 

Arrival in Grand Turk

On Monday we moved on from Provo to Grand Turk. Grand Turk is the island on which the capital of the Turks and Caicos, Cockburn Town, is situated.

We have got a lovely apartment in an old house, it has got a hammock outside, a veranda and a lot of sea-life inspired art-work.

Grand Turk is lovely. It is very small and there are a lot of old houses, and has a colonial feel about it. There are “wild” donkeys, and some really cute donkey foals, and people are very friendly.

The only downturn is the heat, as it seems to be even hotter here than on Provo.

The last few days we have spent scoping, arranging the next community meeting and the national meeting… all new and exciting!

We found a nice venue in a church hall for both meetings and are busy inviting people and making contacts.

Looking forward to a last lovely few weeks in the Caribbean!

 

Last few days on Provo…

Grand Slam BoatOh, it surely has been busy those last few weeks (whenever is it not here)- and we are supposed to be in the laid back Caribbean! In the last two weeks we had two community meetings, one in Five Cays, our fishing based community, and one in the Bight/ Turtle Cove area, our tourism based community. It was great to meet people that we had met in interviews or generally around before, and to say good bye and thank you. Especially the Five Cays community meeting had a great attendance, and we had great help from our local translators Chaly and Joseph!

Goergie and Katharine went on the Haitian radio, and TV teams came to both community meetings!

On Saturday, June 22nd (I know, it is quite a few days ago now) we went out for a fantastic evening to see the TCI Battle of the Bands. Great music, great people, dancing and fun!

Then we had to say goodbye to Georgie, and there were only three of us left, “mopping” up the last interviews, doing another radio interview with DJ Viper, the Five Cays community meeting and the sad part, saying good bye to all the lovely people we had met over the past two months!

It were a busy two weeks, but at the same time very successful!

On our final day Sarah and I managed to go on a snorkeling trip, and it was definitely the best snorkeling experience I ever had: I saw 2 sharks (one nurseshark and one reefshark), reef-squid, a big lobster (and he was really big!!) and loads of other fish and creatures! We went diving for conch in the shallow and had fresh conch salad on Iguana island! What a great finish to our time in Providenciales (as we did not even manage to go diving even once!)

 

 

 

Getting to Know TCI… better and better

Without Sarah, Provo has been crazy… We met so many amazing and interesting people and are fully into the swing of things once again! This is a huge change from lovely relaxed Anguilla, and I have been doing interviews with loads of watersport operators and sport-fishers, learned a lot about Marlin and bonefish (I had never even heard of them before), and met a whole lot of people who are out there diving.

This week we also did a community meeting in each of the two communities we are studying here in Provo, which were both great, but very very different from each other.

Friday I managed to get a trip on one of the snorkel boats to their snorkel site!!! Buff, the mate on the boat, wanted to show us the TCI version of “Fish and Chips”: Throw a pack of dorito chips (crisp) into the water, and the triggerfish get mental!!! I wonder why people have to use other bait 😉 (Not so sure how healthy that is for the fish though).

The reef around there was pretty, but sadly not that many fish…Next stop was on the great flat to find the conch… all passengers were dispatched into the water to find their own conch in about 60 cm of water! Once we had enough conch of the right size we went to a little island and Captain Pop made an amazing conch ceviche… yummy yummy, while I explored the island and visited the iguanas. Just before we were about to leave we had a young lemon shark coming straight to the beach, and as well an eagle ray and a manta ray- that must have been the absolute highlight of my day. And guess what, in the evening Sarah called me to report all the species I had seen- I had recognized them all (go Pia!!!)

So far so good, should try to upload some pictures that I took with Georgies underwater-camera 🙂

Our newest member introducing herself :-)

Hello! My Name’s Georgie, I joined the FOR team in TCI last week. I’m an MSc student from Newcastle out here for two months to help with the social survey team and do research for my thesis project.

I don’t think I’ve seen a tropical island quite like Provo before, the first thing you notice when you fly in is the incredible bright turquoise sea and long white beaches, a proper postcard image. It’s a very interesting place, driving from the airport I could have been in America; wide roads, big air conditioned super markets and lots of luxurious resorts. We’re staying in Grace Bay, which has every convenience who’d need for a holiday without even leaving the resort village, but the communities outside the resorts are great. Although there are lots of people living in small, quite rundown houses and there is a lot of litter around, people are very welcoming and seem to have quite a strong sense of community.

We’ve spent the past few days mapping out the communities we would like to work with here, which meant a lot of cycling and driving around asking people to help us work out community boundaries, trying to count the number of houses in each and sweating a lot. Not an easy task, but everyone has been so helpful, going out their way to ask what we’re doing and if we need any help. I think we’ve got more smiles and waves in a week here than I have in the last year in the UK…no offense England but we’re generally less inclined to wave at random people nosing around our houses!

More news from Provo coming soon…

A Break in North Caicos

After the last few stressful weeks, packed with excitement and loads of work, three community meetings, writing reports and trying to finish off as many interviews as possible, we left Anguilla via Saint Martain and Miami – to arrive in Providenciales, Turks and Caicos!

And I decided to take a couchsurfing holiday for 3 days!!! I took the ferry to a little island called North Caicos, rented a bike at the ferry station, fastened all my luggage somehow on my bike and went off to the little village of Kew, where I was going to stay with Brian/Naqqi. I finally managed to find him, as he had told me his name as Naqqi, while everybody else on the Island knew him only as Brian 🙂

He is the proud owner of the last donkey on North Caicos, a very temperamental one called “Lady Liza”. And in his house he had a cage with tiny quail chicks, which were just too cute- when they are tired they lie down on the floor and stretch the feet away, it looks hilarious seeing a bird lie down, just like a little person 🙂

I went for excursions on my bike to the beach, to find some snorkelling spots and to generally have a relaxing time… and I found  a beach restaurant where they made the most amazing home made ice-cream!! I did a tour on one of the old cotton plantations, visited a big government farm and explored the mangrove areas.

Sadly those few days of relaxation went by far too quick, and now it is time to get back to work on Provo… for the second part of the project with extra help!!

Will report soon!

 

How to cook a Lobster :-)

What a great day off I had -last Wednesday- I went out with Chinnicks for a spearshooting expedition, and he actually caught a fish! But that was not even the best, the snorkelling was fantastic, I saw lots and lots of fish, turtles, a barracuda (who took off when he saw us) and it was a great 2 hour swim, and afterwards I treated myself to a lovely Pizza (I have been waiting for this for weeks!!!)

At night I went to meet up for dinner with the only female fisherman we have met so far! And she gave me a whole lobster to take home 🙂

So there I was on Thursday, googeling how to cook a lobster! As it says, you have to cut them in half first, and then put them in the oven with butter and lemon! But how to cut a lobster with only rather bland knifes and little scissors? Sarah to the rescue!!! She actually managed (combined effort) and put it in the oven… we did not have any butter or lemon either, so we used olive oil and limes…and the lobster turned out fantastic (in the restaurant we would have paid 40 $US :-))

But, for my taste, I have to say lobsters are overrated! I really prefer crayfish, which we had yesterday in Island Harbour 🙂

Ok, I believe writing 3 posts in a day is more than enough babbling about… hope you enjoy- if not just stop reading!!!

 

The Life and troubles of a Social Scientist

I have been meaning to write this piece since quite a while, especially if we are normally just writing about the fun bits… so here comes the serious stuff!!! Get out your tissues, you might get really sad! (And it is I writing this, as new to the field) rather than either of the two experienced people….

Before coming out here I could not wait to get away from the desk,I had not much experience in Social Surveys, interviews other than that I was really interested in people. After all I have only started late with my love for Ecology, but have always been searching for more…

Anyways, here I was , Sarah as a personal trainer, myself and a whole load of questionnaires to ask people about 80 questions… the questionnaire was not really the scary thing, but when you start  to go to a random house, knock on the door (even though houses here have no bells and you are actually standing outside shouting “Hallo, Hallo”, and sometimes you hear from the inside “hallo” and again you shout “hallo” this could take quite some time! And you never know… who is it going to be, are they going to be nice and friendly, are they happy to see you, can you convince them to give you 30-40 minutes to talk to them? After having gone to 100 plus houses I still always feel slightly nervous when I shout the first “Hallo”.

I wonder if it will ever go, or whether it is like before you go on stage- the stagefright, and once you don’t feel it any more, your performance will change???

But once you have met someone, it only starts to get interesting! It is fantastic, the different people you meet, it is opening up your mind and just pure excitement! One day you might be talking to some fisherman, who goes out with his little boat to make a living, then you might meet a fantastic Reggae singer, who is one of the best on the islands, you meet people from all ways of life, and everyone has a story to tell: The Lady who drives the school bus and is accompanied by her talking parrot, the general manager of a large hotel, the owner of a restaurant who meets us at his private house with tennis court and infinity pool, fishermen who invite you out on trips on their boats (so far we had no time to do so)! But then you also hear very sad sad stories, from people who just love having someone to listen to them, stories about loneliness, loss, and stories about people being strong and making the best with the little they have or with what they had to endure with in the past, which is a very humbling experience.

And then there are all those marriage proposals ad declarations of love 🙂

And then there are the dangers for the social researcher- DOGS!!! We always thought they were the dangers top the postman, but social researchers seem to fall in the same category (maybe we will have to disguise ourselves better and our folders we are carrying look too much like postman Pat bags??)  But I have to say most of them are really lovely once they get to know you, but even I, as a dog person, have to say that at times I can get a bit scared…

But after all, the job never gets boring, it drains all the energy out of you and it is fantastic!

And I am just thinking about all the amazing things I could do with the data, once I am back… the sky is the limit! I thought Ecology was amazing and interesting… but compared to this, I should have discovered it much earlier.

 

Back To School!

Now I sorted this blog problem out (Sarah cannot post any more, but still seem to be able to, which is great) I can now give you some more of the fun we are having!!!

10 days ago, Katharine joined us from the UK- now we are three!!! Which makes work much faster and easier! Welcome Katharine (and she will have still much much more free space to blog, so will ask her to post some pictures :-))!!!

Last Tuesday we went “back to school! Primary school, that is (years 5-6, 10-11 years old) and had some great fun telling them all about the coral reefs. Everybody “became” a sea-creature, either a nudibranch, a parrotfish, a soft-coral,a hard-coral… and we created headbands for everybody, which was great fun! Then we went ahead to play a game about the food-chain- who eats whom! Everybody was very happy except for the zooplankton, as he was eaten by absolutely everybody (and could not eat anyone else)!!

Afterward we played something which, I think, Sarah called a Pub Quiz, however, without the pub and with kisses (only chocolate ones) for the right answers!

It was a real fun morning, and cannot wait to do some more in Turks and Caicos… Sadly no more time here to do more!

The afternoon was one of those rare afternoons off, so I introduced Sarah and Katharine to the joys of stand-up paddleboarding. We went out to a place called Little Bay, which is great for snorkelling and took masks as well. I gave Sarah and Katharine a “pull through the water, as they were holding on to the fin of the board with mask and snorkel on, I did  not realize what a strong workout that would be.

And then we finished the afternoon with a cocktail in the sunset (and I am not allowed to mention us drinking alcohol, but it was only one glass in the evening, and it makes the story so much more exciting and tropical ;))