Today was lake ice testing day at Lake Mateus which is located just under the tres hermanos peaks – so a pretty spectacular study site as far as study sites go! We of course have to take extra care to test the ice thickness before we can go on the ice to take samples and Steve is the experienced volunteer for this role which requires strict safety precautions including dry suit, life jacket, ropes and harness. It’s a long process getting ready for the first stages of field work and today was a sorting out day and recce of our first lake site area. With so much snow it is difficult to even make out the lake boundary and you can’t rush out here even if you want to, you simply don’t have the energy to do anything quickly.

This morning we were woken at 7am to be told we had 20 minutes to get ready for our zodiac ride to the Maximiliana. We had already had a few panic station alerts but this was the first to wake us from deep sleep. We were soon waiting by the shore for the zodiac and Brazilian crew who first had to take some emergency medical supplies to the airport. After half an hour or so sitting expectantly in the zodiac we were on our way! A nice 5 minute morning breeze aboard the zodiac woke us up, followed by a hair-raising clamber up a rope ladder to the welcome Maxilimilana above. The Maximiliana is a Brazilian Navy ship but also research vessel with some nicely equipped laboratories and meeting rooms. We were also very pleased to be invited to breakfast as we had had to leave before Russian breakfast time (and you never know when the next opportunity for food might be..) though the medic who was in charge of us on the ship kept apologising for the mess as there had apparently been a big party the night before (and still people sleeping on the sofas). We were told the ship sleeps 120 but last night they were over capacity – and being Brazilian this means if there is no space to sleep then – well, that means you simply have to party instead. Of course.

The journey to Potter Cove and Jubany took little more than half an hour but, as we approached, the weather got windier and we were told it might not be possible to finish the journey and might need to spend the night at the Brazilian base, another 4 hours around into Admiralty bay, and try again tomorrow. While I’m sure it would not have been a bad thing to stay at the Brazilian base we were so close (a few minutes zodiac ride) to Jubany we could already see people gathering at the shore and the zodiac being prepared. I had my fingers crossed that we could disembark – we were so close! Potter Cove is amazing, Jubany’s red buildings stand out against the grey and white of rock and snow, with the towering majestic tres hermanos rocks behind. And all around the rest of the cove huge glaciers come down to meet the sea. Spectacular and remote.
It started to snow and the waves didn’t look very enticing but we were relieved when we were told that, yes, the Jubany zodiac was going to come and get us! The next hair-raising experience was descending the rope ladder, especially when I ran out of rungs and, feet dangling in the air I had no idea how far it was to the zodiac below. Luckily I felt a welcome hand guide me as I jumped down. The wind was picking up and then the zodiac engine cut out – but, after several attempts, we were going at full speed towards the shore where the welcome committee from Jubany and our Dallman lab colleagues from Polar Pioneer were out to greet us, also watched by a huge elephant seal on the shore. Finally, only two weeks after leaving the UK, we set foot on Jubany soil (and snow)! The next zodiac trip collected the famous toilets and remaining kit bags – this time the engine stopped working altogether and frantic paddling was required to bring the zodiac back to shore.

After lunch Steve, Tamara (Instituto Antartico Argentinia PhD student working with us) and I went for an afternoon walk to get our bearings and feel for our field area. Tamara has been here before so is a very useful mine of information (as well as being able to communicate with all the relevant members of the base to arrange additional equipment requirements and transport etc.). The Potter Peninsula field area is amazing, gently rolling in contrast to the tres hermanos and a real contrast in terms of snow content to Fildes Peninsula – here there are actually some patches of ground – a gloopy brown sludgy rock scattered mud pie.

The evening consisted of a huge dinner of soup, asado and tinned fruit salad, biscuits and dulce de leche. And wine. What luxury. Followed by a celebratory welcome beer back in the Dalmann accommodation. We have arrived!

Today after we heard we definitely wouldn’t be leaving today (but definitely manana …!) I radioed the Uruguan Artigas base to take up our earlier invitation to visit the base. It’s only 4km away, up and over the hills and around the coast right next to the edge of the Collin’s glacier (known by the Russians, and Bulat who studies it, as the Bellinsghausen glacier) but it took over an hour of effort to walk there through the deep snow. The base consists of 8 people at the moment and we were warmly welcomed with cups of tea and Uruguayan dulce de leche cakes to revitalise us after our hard walk. We were given a tour of all the offices, communications building, laboratories, meteorological base and accommodation (including en suite shower rooms in some – very luxurious!). Most of the buildings were built in the 1990s though the newest was built in 2006 and in summer the base can hold 30-40 people. Scientists (predominantly working on ocean biology and glaciers) bring equipment for specific projects, meaning that during the winter season (and now, at the start of summer) the labs are pretty empty until the scientists arrive. Although the base is located next to the glacier the weather was so bad we could barely make it out through the mist. We were invited (and tempted) to stay for dinner but, with the weather closing in, decided we’d better make the long trek back while it was still light and for our last night in Bellingshausen.

Dirk and I went to the Chilean Armada base this morning to make contact with Christian (from AWI) who is due to arrive into Jubany on the Polar Pioneer. The Polar Pioneer is a Russian ship which has come from Poland via Buenos Aires to pick up the rest of the Jubany Dalmann scientists (from AWI and Oldenburg University in Germany and the Argentine Antarctic Institute) and who Steve and I will be working with in Jubany at the Dallman labs. Maybe they can pick us up, maybe not. The weather is so bad and the ship needs to get to Ushuaia to start the tourist rounds but was still having problems docking at the Polish Arctowski station to drop off cargo, let alone Jubany.

Later, excitement was caused by seeing a plane coming in to land. We have only been here a week but rushed quickly to the airport, laughing at our response and realising how excited our own welcoming committee had been after months on end before seeing a plane. But it turned out to be the Chilean air force training and we later saw a helicopter flying across towards Jubany – taking our equipment across during their training (though minus the toilets which were being stored away from the elements in a container!)

We later heard there is a Brazilian ship, Maximiliana, picking up people from Marsh to take to the Brazilian Ferraz base in Admiralty Bay in the next couple of days so are hopeful we may be able to get a lift round to Jubany if Polar Pioneer cannot make it round. Sounds like we might make the journey in the next day or two which is very exciting.

Today was Sunday, we have been here one week already, and we were treated to a slap up breakfast including fried eggs and sausage pancake. We had just finished eating when Bulat came over and said the Polar Pioneer was due to arrive at Jubany in half an hour and maybe they would also be able to pick us up this morning. All was a panic as Steve and I rushed back to our rooms to pack, instantly regretting our fry up as we looked out at the choppy sea even in our sheltered cove.

I had had to take almost everything out of my bag while searching for something earlier so had to almost pack again from scratch. Not an easy task given everything I brought with me for my two month trip. Such is the way things work here – you can be starting to settle and then suddenly have a short time frame in which to suddenly need to get ready for a potential rapid departure (it was the same with the flight from Punta). Dirk went to call the ship and texted us a little while later to say panic over the weather is too bad and Polar Pioneer couldn’t get in contact with Jubany so we are not going imminently after all. He laughed when he saw us – although he could have returned to our accommodation ten minutes later he knew we would be frantically packing so sent a text to let us know instead. That was a really nice thought.

Later, when the rain had eased off a bit and we knew we definitely wouldn’t be travelling today (and once our fried breakfast had settled back down) Steve and I braved the wind to venture to the lake again to take some water chemistry readings and resample some soil to replace what had become the kelp gulls last night dinner. But when we got to the lake we saw the snow at one end had melted, resulting in deep water on top of the ice below. Other patches of blue were beginning to appear on the snowy surface so it wasn’t feasible to go onto the ice. We didn’t know how deep the snow melt on the ice would be (though surely somewhere near our knees), and even if we did manage to get to our site what was to say a moat wouldn’t form around the lake while we were on it and we would be left stranded. We couldn’t risk it and so settled only for our replacement catchment sample instead. By now the wind was horrendous and it was raining hard so we were glad to get back inside again.

By lunch time the rain had gone and was replaced quite unexpectedly by a frantic horizontal blizzard. We were glad we weren’t on the ship now! By dinner time the sky consisted of patches of white cloud with a backdrop of bright blue sky, and the snow glistening in the evening sun. The sea was still choppy and the wind had blown some of the larger ice bergs further out to sea. Five minutes later and the sky turned to grey with no blue in sight and it looks like another snow storm is on the way. A bit later and the sky was clear again, the half moon bright and clear in the evening sky. I am still getting used to how changeable the weather can be here!

This morning the annual chess championships were held at the Chilean base. Carlos the school teacher said maybe one day the chess would be included in the Antarctic Olympics, it would be nice though at the moment because the chess mainly consists of Chilean participants it is a separate event. Steve competed against some local experts, including Miguel, the x-box loving eleven year old who moved so fast the game was over almost as soon as it began. All the children (and some adults) had been training hard in preparation! Our Russian Olympic poker champion was delighted to also win the chess medal.

The weather was wet and windy in the morning and pretty miserable but I was getting impatient to do some fieldwork. After lunch Steve and I were still indecisive about re-visiting the nearby lake that the Bellingshausen engineers had drilled holes through the ice for us a few days ago. We decided to test out the weather by first going to the kit boxes near the shore and see just how strong the wind was once the rain had eased. We eventually decided we would give it a go. It was the first time the rain had eased for a while and, despite the wind, we were both itching to do something. Also, it might be our last chance as tomorrow the weather is supposed to be better in the morning so who knows, we might even be picked up to continue the final leg of our journey to Jubany. We’ll see.

As always in cold climates half of the effort of fieldwork is getting ready. My fieldwork clothing consists of: base layer socks, waterproof socks, base layer leggings, thick leggings, wind proof trousers, waterproof trousers, walking boots, gaitors, vest, body base layer, mid layer, down jacket, glove liners, waterproof gloves, balaclava, hat, down hood, waterproof hood, ski goggles.

The kit box was heavy and awkward between us and I needed to stop to take off my balaclava as my goggles were misting up. Bulat suddenly appeared from nowhere and grabbed my end of the box as my hands were occupied. Lucky me! The slog up the hill to the lake was hard work enough without carrying a container of field equipment. The lake is only about a kilometre from the base but getting there is quite a workout. The snow has started to melt so every three or so steps we would sink up to our knees which was exhausting work. Combined with the rather energetic wind even walking a short distance is such an effort here.

The lake snow on top of the one and a half metre thick ice had also started to melt, meaning we would, again, sink into the snow down to the lake ice below. Bulat helped us with our lake coring. Rather appropriately we used what is known as a Russian corer – so we used a Russian corer on a lake next to the Russian base and with the Russian base Commander helping us! And what a fantastic laminated core we found, complete with volcanic ash layers and topped with a bright green moss. All our effort had paid off. A successful day and I was very excited to have done my first bit of lake coring through Antarctic ice!

We took two cores by which time the wind was becoming even more energetic and then made the slow slog back. Unfortunately, we later found our outside sample freezer that housed our prize samples from our two days work had been raided by the local kelp gull population, my carefully collected soil sample strewn over the ice. Luckily they had failed to destroy anything else and this sample is the easiest to replace. It would have been a different story if it had been our precious core material! Our new outside store is now, more sensibly, one of the metal (kelp gull proof) crates on the shore.

Late in the evening was sauna time – yes the Russian base has a sauna next to the shower within the generator building. And it was truly the hottest sauna I have ever been in. But, combined with the earlier strenuous fieldwork it meant I had the best nights sleep yet.

The volleyball and football finals were this morning in the Chilean base sports dome, followed by the Olympic closing ceremony (our Russian hosts won the poker, China won the badminton and ping pong, the Chilean military won everything else between them). I was pleased to see the only female participant, Patricia from Uruguay, got a special certificate for her badminton playing.

The post-Olympics party consisted of traditional dishes from each of the participating countries, washed down with free flowing Chilean wine and pisco sours, all with a backdrop slide show of photos taken over the last four days. It was a lovely fiesta to mark the end of this special occaision of fun and socialising, bringing together new members of the bases and forging new friendships between the nations.

Later on Steve and I went up to the lake to take some depth readings in preparation for our lake coring. The weather wasn’t good enough to core but we wanted to check how many rods we would need to lug up the hill when we eventually get a window in the wet weather. We also collected some catchment samples, amazingly things can apparently still survive under all this snow.

After breakfast we got a lift with the Chileans to the Chinese Great Wall base for the badminton and ping pong Olympic games. I managed to squeeze into the back of an orange sno-cat, while Steve and Dirk sat in a trailer on the back of a skidoo. I could barely see out of the window but after a few minutes on what felt like the beginning of a blind rollercoaster ride I saw the skidoo speed past with the driver calling out to our driver to stop. We had gone the wrong way! Later I found out I wasn’t the only one who couldn’t see where we were going – Steve and Dirk had had their own private snow storm behind the skidoo so had to spend the journey covering their faces. They thought at times the driver had forgotten he was towing them behind in his haste to get to the Olympic hall in time! It was a fair way to the Chinese base, over the hills and through the valleys so I think I had the better transport option.

The Chinese base is amazing, and huge considering there are about twelve people there in winter and up to forty in the summer. The have a dedicated three storey sports building where the badminton took place, with one floor overlooking the sports hall and filled with comfortable sofas and a plush carpet. The ping pong took place in the building next door, a two storey building with a small gym. The accommodation (up to forty in summer) is housed in another new three storey building. We were also given a tour of the new laboratories which were amazing.

After being told we would be provided with a simple lunch (simple because they were feeding all the Olympic participants and supporters) we feasted with the base commanders in festively decorated surroundings on an amazing and diverse banquet, complete with Chinese wine and sweets, and Antarktik beer (brewed in China but exported only to the Chinese base and only available to drink in Antarctica).

Today we woke to a glorious sunny morning with the cove as calm as a mill pond. We were confident we would be leaving on such a perfect day but after a fruit salad, semolina and sausage roll breakfast we heard via radio with Jubany that sea ice is still blocking any transport from their end. It seems incredible the weather can be so different but, within a few hours, we were also experiencing a return of sea ice once more, and the weather had changed into snow, sleet and driving rain by the afternoon. It is true that the weather is unpredictable and can change extremely quickly here, it can really be deceptive but I am getting used to the ever changing conditions.

We trudged through the knee high snow to visit the local school. Carlos and Priscilla are the two Chilean teachers and there are 13 students in total, ranging from 6-14 years old. Today we met 9 of the children, aged 7-14 (one was ill and the other three belong to the afternoon nursery school). The children are predominantly from the Chilean military families at Frei Marsh and live here from March to November, travelling back to Chile for the rest of the year. They mostly come from the north of Chile from Villa del Mar to as far north as Arica and will be heading back soon, either when school finishes in three weeks time, or after Christmas.

Carlos and Priscilla have been teaching here for one year and will teach for two more but after that the future of the school is in question. With few pupils and few families here (thirteen in total) there are concerns over costs and even talk of closing the town. The children areall happy here though, in particular enjoying lessons of mathematics and physical education, enjoying the snow, sports (especially sledging) and seeing the penguins in their free time (though one eleven year old boy said is favourite hobby was his x-box).The winters can be hard here though and they do miss the sun and warmth of continental Chile, shops, and the rest of their friends and family. The children were all charming and we had a question-answer session in varying degrees of Spanish and English, explaining where we are from, and what we will be doing on Jubany once the weather settles enough for us to get there.

After a lunch of chicken and noodle soup and roast beef Steve and I went by skidoo to the lake where Bellingshausen and Artiga draw their water from in the summer. We had walked up earlier to have a look but the bleak white landscape means it is very difficult to pick out any features, only a few rock ridges are exposed. Bulat was very keen for us to sample his lake but first we said we would need some holes drilled through the 1m thick ice. This was no problem the Russians would help us but it must be done quickly before the afternoon Olympic volleyball semi-finals took place. The holes were drilled and Bulat tested the water chemistry with a handheld meter (no gloves but it was freezing!) but by the time Steve and I had returned to our kit the weather had got so bad (think wet and windy and not even possible fieldwork weather in the UK, let alone in Antarctica) so we couldn’t go back to the lake. Instead we went back to dry off and also were allowed into the generator building after dinner (chicken, instant mash, cinnamon buns) for a very much appreciated Antarctic shower (there is only one on the base) and the first dose of hot water since being here. Bliss.

Today was the Antarctic Olympics! The white and orange (now mostly white under the snow) domed tent houses the Chilean sports hall and the Olympics are held there every year, usually much earlier, in September, so we were especially lucky to be here to witness such a huge celebration. The Olympics comprises volleyball, mini-football, table tennis, badminton, billiards and poker. Yes, Bulat did explain there are a few subtle differences between Antarctic and conventional Olympics when I asked him to repeat the last sport, not sure if I had misunderstood. There was no mention of Olympic snowball fights or Olympic snowmen building but of course, sensibly, all the activities are carried out inside. I also wondered if Dirk was going to represent Germany and Steve and I would comprise Team GB – we were getting mean at the ping pong last night – though I think still far off the renowned Chinese standard. Instead we were better placed as the international visiting spectators.

The Olympic teams represent Russia (Bellingshausen base), Chile (who have two teams – Escudero base, the hosts, and the military base), Uruguay (Artiga base) and China (Great Wall base). South Korea (King Sejon base) was not able to attend due to the raging storm outside which made crossing the cove impossible – so instead a last minute team was made up of members of the Villa de Estrellas population and some additional Chilean military personal instead. It is too far for Argentina (Jubany base) to join in and even further for other bases on the island – Poland (Artowski), Peru (Macchu Picchu) and Brazil. I was interested to hear Brazil, on the Keller peninsular inside Admiralty Bay, occupies what was once the British base on King George Island.

After an exciting formal opening ceremony with all the teams lining up for the opening song and Chilean dancing display the games began! The hall was filled with about 50 members of the Fildes Peninsular, everyone introducing themselves and the hall filled with chatter from all nations. We watched volleyball and mini-football but this was also a networking occasion and we have now met the base commanders from all the nearby bases, including the Chinese commander who has invited us to the Great Wall base for the ping pong and badminton Olympics in a couple of days time, and also Carlos, one of the two teachers from the Villa de las Estrellas school, who has invited us to visit the school tomorrow.

After dinner (incuding the most amazing chocolate chip fudge cake for desert!) we headed to the Chilean games building to support our Russian hosts in the first rounds of billiards and poker. They had been hopeful for a volleyball win earlier in the day but were beaten by Chile but the evening ended well with them winning both the billiards and poker.

Aside from the Olympics, today was also exciting for me in terms of wildlife. Though our journey to Jubany had been further delayed by the return of the sea ice with last nights blizzard, the morning was sunny with blue skies and the sea ice had, much to my delight, brought us some new visitors in the form of Weddell seals and chinstrap penguins.