Be an ‘Eco Babe’ and avoid Black Friday sales, they are far from sustainable.

By Isobel Parker

BRITS were predicted to spend £6bn on Black Friday this year and every brand wants you to spend your money with them by offering a host of unmissable offers and discounts.

But at what point do brands go too far, meaning Black Friday becomes a PR nightmare as oppose to a financial success? [1] A clear example of a Black Friday blunder this year came from fast fashion giant Pretty Little Thing, which offered shoppers an ‘up to 99% off everything’ sale leaving Twitter and the headlines in uproar, perhaps unsurprisingly. Dresses were being sold for as little as 8p and bikini bottoms were available for 5p; these prices would make anyone assume that someone along the production line was being exploited and the sustainability of such a campaign must be questioned.


From a company running a 99% off sale you would imagine that corporate social responsibility was unheard of. However, on googling Pretty Little Thing CSR, you are met with a website page titled Sustainability. The page explains how PLT ‘babes’ can do their bit for the environment, by treating their denim right, making it last longer or by taking part in the PLT ‘ReGain’ project by sending the company their old clothes to recycle and receive a discount on their next purchase.  With fashion contributing to 10% of global Co2 emissions every year and the average person throwing away 31.75kg of clothing per year, how can PLT host this sale and then claim to be fully behind sustainability? [2]

This could be seen as an example of greenwashing, using CSR to mask social irresponsibility and covering up potential malpractice by papering over the cracks of corporate wrongdoing. However, in the days of social media a web page about sustainability is not enough to avoid a Twitter backlash.

Black Friday seemed like a dark day for Pretty Little Thing’s PR with earned and shared media being extremely negative, with mainstream newspapers such as the Guardian sharing their shortcomings. We would expect this to be a major hit in terms of the company’s reputation bank-however, on second glance it appears shoppers were still not deterred and the company managed to generate engagement with over 100, 000 people on a singular giveaway tweet. Although there is a growing movement towards sustainable fashion across the world, it seems it will take more than environmental outrage to deter Black Friday bargain hunters.

#prstudent

[1]https://www.finder.com/uk/black-friday-statistics

[2] https://www.prettylittlething.com/sustainability

The ethical concerns of fast fashion and whether you should still buy from the brands

By Sophie Smith

FAST fashion has shifted the way in which the fashion industry works. There are many elements that make it ‘fast’, the customer’s decision to buy a garment, the production line, next day delivery and even how often the item of clothing is worn for. This produces the thought of how ethical fast fashion can really be.

Over the Black Friday weekend, brands under the Boohoo Group PLC, such as Pretty Little Thing and Nasty Gal, offered discounts as high as 99% off, meaning you could buy items for 5p. In what circumstances can this be ethical? Who is suffering for the company to charge this little? Fast fashion companies reduce costs as much as they can during the production line by using poor quality clothing and paying workers below minimum wage.

To no surprise, customers were still jumping at the chance to pay so little for multiple items, it’s a deal like no other. At that moment you may not necessarily think about the implications the low costs create. It also gives people the opportunity to buy clothes they may not usually be able to afford, and that is completely fair. However, it is an ongoing issue in the fast fashion industry that their production is not ethical.

For the factory workers employed by fast fashion companies, the pay they receive is not usually sufficient. Boohoo Group PLC and Missguided have multiple factories in Leicester that employ mainly migrant and temporary workers. In 2018 an exposé by the Financial Times found that workers in the city were paid £3.50 an hour, which is half of the minimum wage for a 16-18-year-old. This is even worse in developing countries, in 2019 Statista reported that Ethiopian garment workers received the lowest monthly wage of $26[1].

The impact of fast fashion on the environment is also a cause for concern. The clothing industry is the second highest polluter of clean water, according to the Institute of Sustainable Communication[2], mainly from toxic chemicals being dumped by fast fashion retailers. Most clothes are made from oil-based polyester which has now overtaken cotton as the main fibre in clothing. Fast fashion also uses lead salts to colour clothing because it is cheaper but not particularly safe for you or the environment.

For such an unethical industry, fast fashion continues to thrive. High-street brands such as H&M and Topshop have to compete with the availability that fast fashion provides, they’re now classed as ‘fast’ in their own way. H&M receive new merchandise on a daily basis, so they are providing new items to you very quickly.

I also spoke to a few friends about why they find it hard to shop with more ethical, sustainable brands, with most saying it’s about the range of garments they offer. A lot of sustainable brands don’t produce plus-sized clothing, and charity shops quite often have a small range of men’s clothing. This has encouraged them to shop at these fast fashion companies that offer everything they could need. You also find the problem that sustainable brands can be expensive and for a lot of people that isn’t ideal. I know as a student I like to keep things cheap.

We have seen the ethical issues behind fast fashion, and I think we will always be aware of this. However, because of the growth of the industry, and the lack of choice elsewhere, we are being steered into the direction of fast fashion brands. I have no doubt that we will continue to shop with these brands until we can find a cheaper, more varied ethical way of shopping. Until then, I personally don’t think we should feel overly guilty or ashamed for shopping fast fashion.

If you would like to take a look at what Boohoo Group PLC have on their sustainability page, this can be found here: https://www.boohooplc.com/sustainability/supply-chain-review

[1] https://www.statista.com/chart/17903/monthly-minimum-wage-in-the-global-garment-industry/

[2] https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/articles/why-fast-fashion-is-killing-the-planet-and-your-ethics/